I guarantee if you put springs with 580# open and 230# seat you will get rid of the valve float and even wear some of that aggressiveness off of the lobes.

Seriously though, I know what the problem is because I have experienced it. Find a way to raise the rocker shaft .250", yes I said 1/4", and the problem will go away. Let me know if you need assistance with this and I can help. Your springs are not too heavy, but I don't think they are too light either, IF the rocker shaft is at the right place. Logic would tell you if the only thing you changed was the cam, then the first place to look for a problem is in the valvetrain.

Well I installed new plugs and backed the preload off another 1/4 turn. Hopefully that will do the trick? Will know tomorrow morning when I take it out for a test run. If this doesnt work then I will be pulling a couple springs and having them checked.

Cant say I have ever heard of raising rocker shaft 1/4"? What is the theory behind doing that?

I dont have a crank trigger.

If u raised them that high, i think, no, i know u will have a bigger problem.

I like to set the seat pressures from 140 to 175 lbs on the seats and from 325 to 375 lbs opened on all of the agressive lobed cams with either hydraulic or solid fat tappet lifters. Maybe a little more with the really good lifters like the tool steel or the Shubeck type ceramic puck bottomed lifters

Well....1/4 turn less preload and I it is still breaking up as most of you guys predicted. I want to say it wasn't quite as bad a previously but that may be splitting hairs. It is still breaking up at around 5700rpm.

Guess the next step will be to pull a couple springs and have them checked next week. Will have to do a little more research on raising the rocker shafts. My combo is fairly mild with the OOTB Eddy heads, comp pro mag rockers, 10:1, and the Lunati 630303 hyd cam. I thought Comp designed the rockers for install without any major modifications?

As far as it being an issue on the electrical side...it could be possible but I think it is just strange how the car ran fine with the 509 cam and after only swapping the cam this problem showed up. The distributor cap looks good and clean, new plugs installed, and tried a different chip in the MSD box. All leads me to want to go after the valvetrain first.

take another 1/2 turn out and try that first! a little ticking won't hurt anything!

I should only have 1/4 turn preload on them now...at least that is what it should be. I guess I could go through and start over finding "0" lash and then put 1/8 turn on them...and see what happens.

Lashing hydraulic cams is very tricky. try backing off 1/2 turn just to see what it does before re setting.

I think I would try checking my timing first

Dist rotor phasing?
Digger73

check the underside of the air filter lid for evidence of reversion. i had this exact same problem, and my air cleaner lid was literally dripping with fuel from reversion. a carb spacer (to in crease plenum volume) took care of the problem. i also had some exhaust restriction, which compounded the problem.

I'd bet that engine is done making power at 5200ish

Can't say how many times we had to replace plugs or plug wires after doing a cam break-in. All that heat with a car that's not moving is pretty hard on the boots.
Also, that cam seems somewhat smaller than the 509, but I don't know if that's what your intention was.