1. If a car presents with a pull under braking, first rule out a failed suspension component [like a strut rod bushing or control arm bushing] that results in a large caster differential. This is rare, and generally alarms the driver with a distinct clunking, but needs to be ruled out before spending time with any brake disassembly.
2. Absent a suspension explanation, a true brake pull is due to either
a. A difference in the coefficient of friction from side-to-side.
or
b. A difference in hydraulic pressure delivered side-to-side.
Inspect hydraulic components for leaks, blockages, or seizures. Inspect hard parts for differences in surface condition. Inspect friction material for contamination or improper installation (darker/longer shoe lining goes towards the rear of the car).
The percentage bet is that you have a blown wheel cylinder that has contaminated the linings on the side away from the pull.
And... another vote that someone who is challenged by the removal of a front drum might not be the best candidate for do-it-yourself brake repairs. Sorry to be harsh, but the safety of those who ride in your car and those unfortunate enough to be on the same road at the same time as your car is at stake here.
