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you're right, in that the alternator only puts out what's needed, and most of the time, that's nowhere near alternator's maximum output.

...unless you are having issues and are cranking on the starter a lot before the engine starts running, or you left your lights on for awhile and the battery is low, in which case, the system WILL put out maximum amps until the battery is recharged/caught up. Wires need to be able to support the maximum that the alternator is capable of making

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This is partially true but there is a limiting factor here and that is the battery itself. Most car batteries will only charge so quickly...usually at 30 amps or so and will quickly drop current consumption once they begin to 'fill up'. Deep cycle batteries will accept more current (40 amps+) which can be problematic in the situation outlined above where you have an alternator with plenty of output and a depleted battery.

With a Chrysler style square-back alternator (even up to 100 amp), this isn't usually a big issue as they put out much less at idle so if you don't rev the motor for a while with a depleted battery, they still won't have enough output at idle to burn up the charging circuit. The problem is with the newer alternators that put out their rated amps (or close) at idle which, in conjunction with a depleted enough battery, could pose a hazard.

If this is the case and you want to be extra safe, I would run a 8ga or higher wire from the alternator directly to the starter relay post or positive battery terminal to siphon off the extra current in these situations and take some of the load off the factory harness/ammeter.

As for your original question, it may be possible for an alternator with an internal short to damage the VR but the fact that it is hi output vs. standard has nothing to do with it. All the VR has to go is 'read' the alternator voltage (blue wire usually) and by floating the ground (relative to the green wire), it will in effect meter the amount of current going through the field circuit which will control the alternator's output. There is no increase in current through the VR due to the fact an alternator may be hi-output.

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The original wires going to and from the ammeter were fried, and also my ignition run wire. I'm replacing them with 10ga and I've bypassed the bulkhead connector (because it melted where the ammeter wires passed though.) I'm running 10ga good oxygen free copper wire, from the starter relay all the way to the ammeter, then back from the ammeter all the way to the alternator. I think 10ga is only good for 30amps. Should I upgrade to 8ga?

I was thinking about bypassing the ammeter altogether but it seemed to be working fine so I didnt. Easy enough to bypass though. Btw, I will be changing the wiring harness when I do my engine swap. But for now I just need the charging system to operate safely so the car can be driven.

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If you are going to just pass through firewall with the new wire (not using the bulkhead connectors), 10ga will be fine with a standard (Chrysler square-back type) alternator. Yes 10ga will max out at 30 amps continuous but you shouldn't see that much current for long periods unless you have a short somewhere. 10ga is better than the factory used which IIRC is 12ga?

Not a bad idea to use 8ga to have the extra insurance, but if you are going to be putting in a new engine/dash harness later on, might be wasting $$$ on the more expensive wire. You can always pull another wire directly between the alternator stud and starter relay later on...

Oh yeah, and make sure you do use a fusible link (16ga) on this circuit!! Place it inline between the ammeter and starter relay...usually near the relay so it's easily accessible. This is you insurance that if things do go south, your charging circuit won't burn down! (literally)

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because the alt rotor shorted to ground.

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Oh yeah, and make sure you do use a fusible link (16ga) on this circuit!! Place it inline between the ammeter and starter relay...usually near the relay so it's easily accessible. This is you insurance that if things do go south, your charging circuit won't burn down! (literally)

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because the alt rotor shorted to ground.

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Does this type of short happen internally inside the alt case or externally?

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