Hi .... I would like to run a solid lifter roller cam in my 71 340 ; what , if anything do I need to change / modify to run one of these ? Also , any brand recommendations?
Thanks in advance !

Listen to your Uncle Cab, but he didn't give you a complete answer.

The first thing you need to put a solid roller in yor 340 is $800, and that's if you shop hard.

R.

The guys at Hughes Engines will have everything you need for the conversion. I think the total cost is well over $1000 by the time you buy new rocker arms, springs, pushrods, lifters, cam, distributor gear, timing chain, gaskets, etc.

I am talking with a Moparts vendor about a hydraulic roller for my street 340. I was told that I would not have to worry about adjusting valves with this setup and I could still get a performance upgrade with the roller setup. But looking at a hydraulic versus a solid roller, does one have a performance advantage over the other (vacuum, torque, etc.)

Sorry to jump in on your thread, but I thought that this question may become informative.

Thanks

No problem .... I need all the info I can get !

I have been searching for material requirements for HR camshafts , so here is the latest wisdom on hydraulic roller vs. solid roller:

For an engine that will redline at less than 7000 rpm, the hydraulic roller is probably better. Also, IMHO, if you have to ask about vacuum, you should be looking at a hydraulic roller.

Now if you are looking for the last ounce of power in a race car and don't give a rat's tail about driveability, the solid roller is the answer.

There is significant overlap between the two types, more so now that so many hydraulic roller cams and engines are out there. That's what is in every new pushrod engine sold in the US.

OF COURSE you can buy a solid roller cam that will have excellent street manners, but why would you want to? Love that tic-tic-tic of the solid lifter? You already have the lifters and the retrofit hydraulics will cost $500? Those would be good reasons.

IF, however, you are starting from scratch the hydraulic roller has advantages and would be what I suggest.

R.

As 1Fast340 mentioned, I do check my valve lash on my solid street roller every year, but I never have to change the lash. Don't the wheels on solid rollers lifters need to be inspected after so many miles?

A solid roller may, or may not be any harder on parts than a hydraulic. It can be true, but the devil is in the details. With either solid or hydraulic, the lobe profile, and needed valve spring for valve train control with the chosen lobe profile will dictate the abuse the valve train will get. Furthermore, the same limiting factors that apply to a hydraulic flat tappet cam apply to a hydraulic roller cam. The hydraulic plunger can only take so much lift rate, and valve spring pressure.

You can get a solid roller that is nearly as easy on parts as a hydraulic roller and will last a lifetime, and with that you can be assured that you are not giving up performance due to the hydraulic lifter.

If you want an easy, no fuss cam that is quit, and performs better than a hydraulic flat tappet without the concern for eating a lobe, and can afford it, get the hyd. roller. If getting more performance and don't mind the noise and possibly more under hood time, get the solid roller.