Just put drilled and slotted rotors and new ceramic brake pads on my Ram SRT 10. After a high speed bring down last month I thought I had warped a rotor so I upgraded. The "warped rotor" was really terrible driving. When I took the old rotors and pads Off I discovered one of my brake pads had split. This was causing the warped rotor sensation. These pads are the z16 ceramic type pads. I had put them on last year, and yes I went through the break end procedure as recommended. They were fine for almost year, look how much material is left on them:

It looks like the pad may not have been manufactured properly. If one strong heat cycle flaked the pad material it makes me think it was not bonded properly.

There are a few probelms with the Powerstop pads. Either get them exchanged or pick up a better quality pad from a company like EBC.

Feets speaks the truth, that should not have happened, looks like a warranty issue to me.

Don't know about the application but I have never had a bad Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pad.

R.

Although probably not the issue I've seen a lot of people install slotted rotors on the wrong side. Here's the right method http://zeckhausen.com/how_to_properly_install_rotors.htm

Slotted rotors are new, this happened with the stock rotors. If the slotted ones are marked correctly I've got them where they should be.

Im glad you guys dont work on cars for a living.Just figure a manufacturer makes millions of parts.There are bound to be bad ones.Ive had NAPAs best brakes have the friction material fall off the plate.It happens and it seemed like Mopar pads were the worst.Just like buying a part and the guy says "It cant be bad because its new".Over the last 30 years Ive seen it all.Ever tune a car and wonder why it wont start now with all new parts.Then pull the cap back off and discover either the carbon button or the steel strip on the rotor was installed.New brake druns from Wagner that made the car feel like it was coming apart because they were warped so bad.The list goes on and on.Rocky

Had a mopar OE rear brake shoe loose it's lining on the road...That was a fun ride...Spun around and lodged between the other side's shoe...Locked up the one side on the highway for the slide into homeplate...

Rocky, what's your point? Sure there are bad parts out of the box, but thats why there are warranties! If the pads were worn out that'd be different.
My favorite was a NAPA windshield wiper motor dead out of the box. Took me days to figure that one.
R.

Dogdays my point was take them back.Some guys act like a part thats bad is a major crime.Yeah its a pain but after 30 years of doing it every day you find out it happens.Just like buying a new car.You can get one that goes 500K with no problems and the guy next door buys the same and has it in the shop every week.Its man made so stuff that is bad happens.Only time it really POed me was when it took a lot of time and then you find out the part is bad.Had a water pump I installed {insert type}.Bolted it all in and was finishing up the job.Guess what it wouldnt turn as it wasnt pressed on enough.Cussed a bit and tore it back off.If the pads have a warranty bring them back.Rocky

Ok, first off you can spot a cheap pad anywhere, looks like you have a cheap pad,
Sorry but is what it is . there ae only a
Only a few makers of the pads, that make all the brakes, some produce their own back plates some reuse old plates,
heat was the killer here, pads glazed tons of dust,
other killers of brakes is bad driving habits, mis use and abuse of brakes , and improper install of brake pads from the start!
Bad bolt pins, not cleaning or replacement of the sliders and anti chatter clips,etc
just because you put a drilled and slotted rotor doesn't mean that it was a great thing on a 5000,-6000 # vehicule and try stopping on a dime from over 100 mph!!
If you wanted a sports car , buy that it will !

When we did ambulances at the shop we used the Sever duty pads.Our cost was 50 bucks for most.When you are trying to stop one of them with all the equipment and people the price was cheap.Plus they usually lasted longer than a regular pad.Rocky

Wouldn't a slotted rotor use a pad that's tapered on the end so it doesn't grab the slot ? The set I put on mine where. I see those are not and wonder if that's why it happened.

And maybe put a bit of anti-seize on the slides (you didn't use any) so the pad will move properly.

Agree you should return them. I'll add that "bedding in" the pads before severe use is good practice. Bear brakes publishes a sequence. Basically it amounts to progressively more severe brake cycles to bring them up to temp gradually followed by cool down. That may help the new pads survive the hard braking. Also at least de-glaze the rotors before re-assembly. A light touch with a DA and some 80 grit works.