I would suggest the following procedure.
This is the simplest and the most accurate method taught to me 40 years ago. it has never failed me
Hydraulic lifters can be set, hot or cold, pumped up or not using this procedure. It will also work for an initial set up on a solid lifter motor.
For Hydraulics, most manufacturers want .020-.040 preload. If you have a 3-8 x 24 adjuster, 1” divided by 24 TPI = .0416” so 1/2 turn beyond zero lash, will = .020 , 3/4 turn will = .030.
I like to start at the LF corner of the motor. (exhaust) Turn the engine over in the direction of rotation until the intake valve for that cylinder is almost closed. You can now adjust the exhaust valve for that cylinder.
Loosen the adjusting nut until the pushrod spins
freely between your finger tips.
Sloppy is even better . While spinning the pushrod, slowly tighten the adjusting screw, when you find zero lash you will feel a definite change, IE: resistance to spinning the pushrod. NO NEED TO GO ANY FURTHER, you have found ZERO LASH. You may want to repeat this a few times to get the “feel”. Once zero lash is found, add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and lock the adjuster.
Move to the next valve in line (intake). Rotate the motor in the direction of rotation until the exhaust valve for that cylinder just begins to open. Repeat the above adjustment procedure.
Repeat the process for the remaining cylinders.
Summary:
Adjust the exhaust as the Intake is almost closed
Adjust the intake as the exhaust just starts to open
If the noise is still present it is either a bad lifter, rocker, pushrod or elsewhere