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Re: Hardware Restoration Services [Re: 72CUDA340] #1472915
02/13/14 11:09 PM
02/13/14 11:09 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
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AAR#2 Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
Phosphating comes with 2 options, Zinc and Manganese, both of these produce varying levels of gray to almost black (depending on the concentrate, age of bath, length of time in solution, and base material). The biggest difference between the two is level of porosity at the microstructure level and depth of color. Automotive hardware is generally Zinc while many Guns use manganese. Zinc also makes a good base for painted surfaces or can be oiled (sealed) for a nice grey finish. As an alternative to oil I use a water soluble sealer available from Caswell plating. The sealer can be left natural for a beautiful zinc finish or painted over at a later date.

Phosphating will require stainless steel or porcelain pot, bowl . . . , needs to be heated to approx 180-200 and you'll need to season the bath prior to first use (1 time only as long as you continue to use a portion of your previously seasoned bath for future jobs). This is easily accomplished with iron filings, or shavings and a coffee filter.

Phosphating can be accomplished by the average home user pretty easily for minimal investment. The process is horribly convenient when doing a restoration and can be easily stored in plastic containers for long periods, making it easy to use at a later date to freshen up details. I tend to refinish even brand new hardware if it doesn't have a good finish.

Hardware prep can vary but in general I blast mine first and will often hit it with a wire wheel to get a nice finish prior to plating. The exception is if I intend to paint it then you may elect to skip the wire polish. I suggest you try the process both ways and make an informed decision what works best for your needs.

Zinc phosphate is not a great corrosion protector and the reason you may receive new parts in a box with corrosion. It's ability to deter corrosion is largely reliant on the oil or sealer placed on the porous surface. Though its outstanding compared to black oxide.

I purchased Zinc phosphate from Brownells (yes, the gun company). Remember your buying concentrate, the pint bottle will make gallons of parkerizing Zinc phosphate solution.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-...g-prod1106.aspx

I don't recommend performing the process in your home, a garage is the better location, buy an old stove or electric portable burner.

Re: Hardware Restoration Services [Re: AAR#2] #1472916
02/14/14 06:06 AM
02/14/14 06:06 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340 Offline
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kentj340  Offline
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
Quote:

. . . needs to be heated to approx 180-200 deg...buy an old stove or electric portable burner.




Yep, exactly, and an excellent summary. I got my phosphating solution from http://www.shootersolutions.com, because he claims his solution/method is darker, but it's manganese. Next time I'll get the zinc solution and compare. There are lots of videos about phosphating, also called Parkerizing, on You Tube.

At first I tried a propane camp stove but found it impossible to keep the temperature from creeping over the boiling point. Now I use a candy thermometer and double boiler method with a large electric skillet from a garage sale. The skillet has water in it, and the solution is in a stainless pot sitting in the water. Temperature control is good. A Teflon skillet with water will work okay when sitting a stainless pot inside.

I don't blast. I just degrease and dunk in vinegar for half day periods to clean. Then wire brush with a brass brush and chase threads if needed. I wear gloves to prevent finger prints.

Since some time may pass between cleaning the fasteners and Parkerizing them, I re-clean. Immediately before dunking in the Parkerizing solution, I dunk in acid for a few seconds or minutes, spray with oven cleaner, and dunk in hot water.

There is discussion above about no need to restore fasteners that are going to get painted, such as body bolts, and I agree totally with that. I coat them with phosphoric acid named Rust Cure, re-coat a week later, wipe, and they are ready for paint in one week.

I've started doing zinc plating and will offer a write up on recommendations later.

8039139-P1020292e.jpg (59 downloads)

If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
Re: Hardware Restoration Services [Re: kentj340] #1472917
02/14/14 10:37 AM
02/14/14 10:37 AM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
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AAR#2 Offline
super stock
AAR#2  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
For comparison, U-nuts prior to refinishing
Pay no attention to the fender washers (Electro-depposited Zinc) as this is another lesson

8039180-photo1.JPG (79 downloads)
Re: Hardware Restoration Services [Re: AAR#2] #1472918
02/14/14 10:38 AM
02/14/14 10:38 AM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
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AAR#2 Offline
super stock
AAR#2  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 768
Dry Heat AZ
And here are the results you may expect to achieve.

8039183-photo2.JPG (90 downloads)
Re: Hardware Restoration Services [Re: AAR#2] #1472919
02/14/14 12:21 PM
02/14/14 12:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 120
CT,USA
7
72CUDA340 Offline
member
72CUDA340  Offline
member
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 120
CT,USA
Thanks so much for that write up! It's funny I was going to start with the Ubolts for my front valence pan. Thanks again for the help

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