Re: 99 Ram 2500 2 WD Cummins 5.9 L question
[Re: HotRod20]
#1462145
07/03/13 02:01 PM
07/03/13 02:01 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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Your lift pump in the stock location is right behind the fuel filter housing. If it works at all you can hear it run or have someone turn the key to the run position and put you finger on the housing and feel it run. If you got nothing at all you have "lost your prime" to the VP44 injection pump which will run without a functioning lift pump, but not well. It cannot pull enough fuel from the tank to run without the lift pump and the pressure head delivered by the lift pump keeps the VP44 cool. You will absolutely need at minimum an OEM lift pump to get your Cummins started. A better solution is a relocation kit to put a DDRP lift pump on the frame rail in front of the fuel tank. An OEM lift pump will cost about $200.00 , the relo kit costs about $100.0 and the DDRP can be had for about $300.00 from Geno's. Now if you only do the OEM pump you will sooner than later probably have to replace the VP44 because the pump may have been wounded by the loss of the lift pump. That rebuilt unit is in the neighborhood of $1,200.00 from many on line vendors. I did all that to my 2002 which had the same fuel system. Diesels are great, but you really need to use them hard to justify the maintenance cost. Good luck.
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: 99 Ram 2500 2 WD Cummins 5.9 L question
[Re: NITROUSN]
#1462147
07/03/13 11:04 PM
07/03/13 11:04 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,189 aZLiViN
J_BODY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,189
aZLiViN
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Quote:
You need to turn the key on, then just turn the switch to crank position for a split second. just enough to hear the starter bump into the flywheel and crank, release the key to the on position. the fuel pump should run for 20 seconds and time out.
what he said... and you'll be able to hear the lift pump run (assuming it's in the stock location). There is also a chance that it may have been retrofitted to an in tank pump. If that's the case, you'll find an aluminum block where the factory lift pump used to be. FWIW I work on these daily, and own a 01 myself, and have the STOCK fuel transfer set up and I'm not scared. I do however have a manual fuel psi gauge mounted in my cab.
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Re: 99 Ram 2500 2 WD Cummins 5.9 L question
[Re: HotRod20]
#1462148
07/05/13 03:10 AM
07/05/13 03:10 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582 Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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If your going to mod it, I'd get a fass or airdog and be done with it.
Like mentioned, you need to turn the key to start for a split second for the pump to kick on.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert 340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z 66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: 99 Ram 2500 2 WD Cummins 5.9 L question
[Re: HotRod20]
#1462151
07/17/13 10:03 AM
07/17/13 10:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840 The Swamp
Sixpak
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
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Quote:
Thank you all so much for the information.this truck has 80k original miles. I went ahead replaced the stock lift pump with a new made in USA precision replacement pump from Orielys Auto Parts for $152.00 .Other than the scrapes on my forearms....I completed the fuel filter change and replaced the lift pump in an afternoon. Again thanks for responding.This is my first diesel and just trying to learn all cautions and maintenance to avoid the VP 44 replacement issue. I did fill the fuel filter housing to aid in initial start after bumping the starter. It fired in 3 attempts and is back running now. HR 20
Don't want to rain on your parade, but if the motor ran for any length of time w/o a good working lift pump, then it may have starved the hi pressure injector pump and it may fail down the road. Fortunately the price has come down on the injector pumps but they are still a high ticket item, even rebuilt. Best insurance you can do NOW is move the stock lift pump back by the fuel tank. There are kits that supply a bracket and new fuel line to do this. The reason your old pump died is because it's too far away from the tank, and doing mostly sucking instead of pushing fuel. The closer to the tank, the less suction the pump needs to make and the longer it will live. Electric pumps are better at pushing fuel than sucking it.
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