I have looked in the tech archives and I have not found the answer to this question...what is the outer axle flange to outer axle flange dimension and the offset of the pinion center line of a 1987 Dodge D100 equipped with a 8.25" diff? I am going to narrow a Dana 60-2 to fit like OEM and it is 66" flange to flange with the driver axle being longer by 6". I hope to only have to cut one tube. The stock axles are 35 spline and can be re-splined. I hope someone already has the info as I cannot physically crawl under mine (recent back surgery) to do the measuring.

What's a D60-2? Also what's it out of?

A Dana 60-2 (BOM #603137-5) can be found in the 69 to 73 Jeep J-trucks. This has a 4.10 PowerLock carrier, 35(!) spline axles with 12" drum brakes and a 5 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern stock. I bought this rebuilt unit (fresh brakes and rebuilt PowerLock) in October of 2010 and it has been laying in my garage ever since. I bought the D100 cream puff a few months back and recently discovered that it has only a 8.25" diff (fine for light duty, but not for what I want) The truck came to me with 16" aftermarket wheels that will clear the 12" drums and I can buy taller 16" tires to make up for the gearing difference or run it as is. I tried to sell the rear end at our swap meet and a few people saw it for what it is, but no bites. Now I am glad I have it. If I can narrow the housing slightly, shorten and re-spline the axle(s), shorten the drive shaft slightly, etc. etc., I will have a 1/2 ton truck with a Dana 60 bullet-proof rear end!

when I was checking 8 3/4 rear axles for the d-100 truck

the c-body 8 3/4 housing is the same as a truck 8 3/4 housing at 59" flange to flange.

spring perch is 43" centers axle under spring for the d-100 trucks.

FYI***I found that the a-body 8 3/4 shares the same 43" spring centers with a axle over spring chassis.

I used the A-body 8 3/4 to fit 12" rim 4.5 backset with a 29x15x15 M/T in my 88 440 truck with a shackle flip with axle on top of springs. (IMHO, I would cut the d-60 to A-body specs/tucking fattys in the fenders.)

I have a 9 1/4 in the shed with the backing plates off,should be the same measurment as the 8 1/4...correct?

I will post the measurment tonight after work.

FYI***with a stock width rear axle in a truck you can use a 10" rim with 7.5 BS to fit 29x15x15 M/Ts with the bed tubbed flush to frame.

what good is a bulletproof rear axle if you dont have fattys to scratch with.

You actually dont have to tub to the frame unless you plan to move leaf to inside the framerails or eliminate leaf all together. Just rubbed to leaf is plenty.

Looking forward to your measurements, Scratchn. Your info has always been appreciated. I know the axle center line to center of the u-joint is the same between the 8.25 and 9.25. The dimension I need now is the center of the pinion gear to the left and right axle flange.
I already have a Dana 60 built from a 3/4 ton Dodge housing under the '86 Ramcharger and it has a Dr. Diff spool with 35 spline Dutchman axles, Center Line 10x15 Warriors and Hoosier 30x10.5x15 slicks. The '87 D100 with a 360 transplant and the Dana 60-2 with PowerLock will be the tow vehicle for the racer. I keep it cool on the street and let it all out on the track. The D100 has a fresh blue paint job (oddly enough a Jeep blue)and I think I will paint the Ramcharger the same blue to match.

Just an FYI Scratch, a Mustang 9" is also a bolt in for the Dodge truck with an axle over leaf setup.

what yr rustang has 43" perch centers? how wide wheel flange to wheel flange?

meausring the 9 1/4 truck rear axle I get 59" flange to flange.(same as 8 3/4 c-body/truck)

from center of pinion to driver side flange I get 30.5"

from center of pinion to pass side flange I get 29"

thats a fast eyeballing of a tape measure on the 9 1/4

Not to continue a thread hijack, but if I'm not mistaken, a 72 73 mustang rear will swap in

The one I was using was from a late 60's mustang.

hub to hub and spring centers were all spot on.

I know you asked about the measurements but watch your measurements.. A 72/74 truck a 8 3/4 xle is 2" wider that a 71 and prior 8 3/4..

I do plan to cut the 6" out of the driver's side tube. I found an illustrated posting on www.panther4x4.com/Dana60-2 where the poster was building his for a Jeep Scrambler and followed it to another page where the installation was done. The driver side axle only was cut 6" and re-splined by a machine shop. Since the axle housing ends are not the popular ones I will not be able to use the jig that was used on my race Dana. I plan to cut the axle and have it re-splined, then cut the tube and using the new axle to locate the tube in the assembled rear end, I will tack the tube together in several places. Then I will verify smooth operation of the partially assembled unit. Next I will completely disassemble the rear end to finish weld the tube and mount the spring pads. Then clean out all the welding debris, check again for straightness, do some bending if necessary and then put it back together. The only work I need to farm out is the spline job on the axle shaft and the shortening of the drive shaft. I have a 14" chop saw to cut the axle and axle tube, a Lincoln AC/DC welder and a Miller 211 Mig for the welding and now I have an OTC case spreader for axle work. And as always, I have a lot more time than money Thanks to everyone for all the help and the measurements

Keep in mind some of the axles are onle hardened so far on the axle. Kenworthgoose found that out when he narrowed his and had axles resplined. Ended up snapping it.

That is good to know about the heat treat. The axles are 1.5" in diameter and it may not be a huge problem, but I will see if the shop can heat treat after they spline. It seems to me that Dutchman heat treats their axles before machining (?) I will have to look at their site again.