20-6 is the standard progressive.

Thanks I just ordered the standard linkage. Should help.

I currently have .094" intermediates in the front and it is pretty darn close. I went down on the rear from .094" to .076". A little better. I am going to try the .076 front and rear to see how it does. But, the linkage should help out a lot.

Leon, where did you order the linkage from?

Summit Racing

Jegs did not have it in stock. I'm not patient

Well. Here is an update. Those of you who have Pro System carbs pay attention so you don't overlook this like I did. Or any carb with passages made for a manufactured vacuum leak usually with jets installed in the holes.

I borrowed a wideband air fuel meter today. Made changes to air bleeds without a lot of difference.

This carb has two holes drilled above the linkage tapped with jets in them. This is to allow air to get in the intake without opening the throttle past the transition slots. I pulled the jets out after not having much luck getting the air fuel to 14.7 at cruise. And the engine was still ratty. As I pulled into the road I started thinking about the standard progressive linkage that was supposed to ship today. Then what about if the linkage came apart and fell in the intake. I then thought well the HVH super sucker blocks that off. Then bam like a shot of light I knew why taking those jets out of the manufactured vacuum leak was not making a difference.

Quickly pulled the HVH out and drove the car. Purring like a kitten. Maybe a little too lean. Around 14.9. So I stopped and put the front intermediate air bleeds back in and the jets for the manufactured vacuum leak. Now I am just a tick rich again. But, know what needs to open up. Going to try a larger intermediate air bleed. I have .094" in their now. It is real close in bad air. So I need to sneak up on this now.

Sometimes its like a brick wall, just run into it and gets your attention. Glad you figured it out. Im gonna start getting mine dialed in carb wise soon, 117 tomorrow kind of a poor time to start tuning with the wide band but it will still be hot next month and the month after that.

Well yes there are always those kind of answers also! You could probably drill the carb spacer so the bypass jets will see manifold vacuum. That is the problem with swapping parts around. Sometimes you end up causing a problem and you don't even know it.

Why are you shooting for 14.7 at cruise? especially with a carburetor and a motor like yours?

Wayne it is just an open circle track engine. The cam grind heads. It has a little more compression and valve spring.

I do not know the specifics on air fuel sense I have always tuned by ear and performance. But, the engine was running awful at 3,000 RPM cruising down the road. No it isn't the number showing on the display is close to 14.7. At 14.6 the engine was running erratic. I have not had the chance to make a WOT run and see what those numbers are. Told they should be around 13.3-13.5 with Sunoco 112. Should be fine sense I tune at the track for MPH.

Haven't seen you around for a while, Wayne. I have registered for Dragweek and doing street tuning right now. Hopefully I will be on to building the trailer and going over everything on the car soon.

Leon

Leon....reason I ask is because I've never had a carbureted motor want to be that lean at cruise... even with very mild motors...mid 13's is the leanest that they seem to run good at...

Been doing a lot more reading than posting lately....

Transfer slot restrictor, Then it can handle more main circuit, works every time.

I'll bet it is very hard to find two O2 sensors that provide the same reading. And definitely two air fuel meters that read the same numbers.

It may be different due to me running it on 16 volts.

What do you think.

The engine is definitely sounding better with my numbers