Is it possible to replace the lugs in a 8.25" axle without pulling the shafts out? Got two stripped lugs, so I'll just put all 5 in. If I can't find a good way to put em in without pulling the shafts, i guess ill pull both and just replace all ten.

Just looking for an easy way out is all. Anyone got some ideas?

Laine

The correct way is to pull the shafts and get them pressed out/in.

Another way is to knock them out with a BFH and use a lug nut backwards with a stack of flat washers to pull the new ones in. This way may not be so nice for the bearings and may over stress the lugs. Do at your own risk.

I have heard of custom presses to change them in place but never seen one.

I'm not visualizing what it'd take but if you could support the back side of the flange solid you could knock em out with a BFH to eliminate the risk of damaging the bearing or bending the flange. You might just try easy tapping on the 2 damaged ones as some are in there fairly loose, you might get lucky. Just discipline yourself not to bang harder if they ain't loose

Not sure if it would work, BUT...

Might try cutting one off flush at the flange and then using a 2 jaw puller on the flange to push the remainder of the the offending stud out the backside.

I had one that I cut off flush with a hand hack saw, then drilled out the center enough to push the remainder out with a flat punch and hammer. A chisel on backside between axle flange and stud flange might loosen it enough to punch it out with damage to bearing. Penetrating oil wouldn't hurt, either. PB Blaster works pretty good.

Great minds think alike..... And apparently so do all of us. I knocked out the offending two last night, stacked some washers and grabbed my impact. It wouldn't pull them all the way in. Tried a bit of heat on the axle flange and tried again. Still no luck.

Guess ill be pulling the axles and using a press.

Just for grins let me tell ya what started this....

73 Dart Sport blew a head gasket. So, i pulled the heads and I had the heads gone through at a shop. New guides, resurfaced, new seals. Good to go. I couldn't see myself putting those nice clean heads and intake on that greasy engine. I pulled the engine and transmission out, cleaned it all up, put new seals and gaskets in the engine and trans. Repainted it, repolished the alum valve covers, replaced the nasty water pump and alternator and repainted all accessory brackets. Of course new motor mounts too. Well, if you go that far, might as well rebuild the carb and toss on new cap, rotor, plugs and wires too.

But, now there was no way I could put that pretty engine In That filthy engine bay. I spent the better part of a day power washing, scrubbing and degreasing the engine bay. Well, while I was at it, I figured I'd just crawl under it and clean the entire underside of the car. That was fun.

As I looked at the pretty engine and clean engine bay, I figured might as well replace all the front suspension/steering parts while they are easy to get to. So, all new bushings, bearings, seals, tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, and brakes went on.

The steel brake lines just looked put of place though.... Quick call to fine lines got me a new set of steel lines for the front of the car. I put them on and FINALLY put the engine and trans back in. But dang, those trans cooler lines were looking rough. So, of course I made some new ones quick.

This process has taken about 2 weeks so far, of course i have a "day job" so things take awhile. I started it up Friday evening again, sounds great, so far no leaks.

Before I start driving it again, I needed to fix those two stripped lugs. Welllllll, since the brake system is empty still and I'm already taking things apart, new shoes and wheel cylinders are in order along with the new lugs. So now, I'll be pulling the brakes apart, pulling the axles replacing all 10 lugs, cleaning everything and replacing the rear brakes.

But wait.... There's more! Since tomorrow night ill be pulling the axles anyway, I might as well put new bearings and seals in the rear axle too. Guess those U joints could use replacing while I'm at it. If only I had a big bolt pattern A-body 8 3/4" rear I'd just remove the 8 1/4" and put a 3:55 sure grip in.

Anything I missed? Lol

The bad thing about all of this is, I'm supposed to be starting the body work on my 70 Challenger. It's engine has been done for 6 months!

Laine

Maybe it's my "fisher price" impact..... Time to bust out the breaker bar and try again.

I've had some parts store lugs strip off the threads pulling them in with the washers. ARP studs always zip right in for me using the same technique. The cheap ones seem to be a really soft metal, while the ARP studs are some good quality.

My dad used to talk about the "$600.00 washer" as in I need to replace a washer on the bathroom faucet and $600.00 later we have new faucet, sink and vanity. Funny how that works

I use a larger nut instead of washers. One the end of the lug nut will fit into, but not go all the way through. We've done them this way for 20 plus years. Although if you use cheap studs, then sometimes will spin and strip. You need a good impact wrench though, otherwise they won't pull all the way through.

Aren't there two different sized lugs with the knurled part being the difference, like .120 ish?

nug luts?

Yes nug luts, or lug nuts for the grammar police.

I got all the new lugs put in yesterday. Pulled them in with an old nut. Same way I tried before, but this time it worked slicker than greased owl sh@$.

Now to drop the fuel tank, clean it up and then it's back on the road with this thing.

Laine