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Re: stroker timing question
[Re: frank]
#1449306
06/08/13 12:21 PM
06/08/13 12:21 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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Can you explain what "it's at the stop" means exactly. Are you currently running the black bushing? Is the distributor hitting something that's stopping it from rotating any more?
Also, a lot of folks use the FBO bushing kit to allow for a greater restriction of the mechanical advance in the Pro Billet distributors, so you can run more initial without getting too much total advance. I am using the largest one in the FBO kit, which allows me to set mine at 22 initial, 34 total and I have it all in by 2000 rpm( the two small silver springs).
You may also want to coat the metal parts in the pro billet to help slow down the corrosion, and spend the time to phase your rotor in relation to the terminals on the cap.
I also drilled a couple large holes in the side of my cap to help get the ionized air out of there. I believe it contributes to the corrosion issue.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: stroker timing question
[Re: jbc426]
#1449308
06/08/13 12:52 PM
06/08/13 12:52 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,138
tucson az
frank
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,138
tucson az
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Quote:
Can you explain what "it's at the stop" means exactly. Are you currently running the black bushing? Is the distributor hitting something that's stopping it from rotating any more?
Also, a lot of folks use the FBO bushing kit to allow for a greater restriction of the mechanical advance in the Pro Billet distributors, so you can run more initial without getting too much total advance. I am using the largest one in the FBO kit, which allows me to set mine at 22 initial, 34 total and I have it all in by 2000 rpm( the two small silver springs).
You may also want to coat the metal parts in the pro billet to help slow down the corrosion, and spend the time to phase your rotor in relation to the terminals on the cap.
I also drilled a couple large holes in the side of my cap to help get the ionized air out of there. I believe it contributes to the corrosion issue.
By stop I mean the distributer will not physically move any more. It has been turned until it hits a physical barrier-a stop
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The Mopar factory service manuals says to bring the motor up to top dead center on the number one cylinder foring stroke and align the oil pump drive so the slot is aligned with the camshaft centerline 