I am shaking out my car and noticed when I try to downshift from 4th to 3rd I cannot unless I bring the speed way down. I beleive the hurst shifter is all aligned well,I did a rebuilt and set it up on the stand but did nothing else when installed in the car. It shifts nice going up but not very good going down. I have yet to adjust the clutch yet. I also had a tranny guy look at the gears and syncros and he told me they were all good & no need to replace.

Any insights on the cause? or help would be appreciated.
thanks

What weight gear oil are you running?

Quote:

---

I have yet to adjust the clutch yet.

---

I'd start here before doing anything else.

Do you get any wobble or shimmy when you go to release the clutch from a stop?

Of course do the obvious things first (clutch adjust) brake it in etc.

I am dealing with a similar situation on my recently completed 69 roadrunner. It downshifts hard and is not as smooth as it should be... it also has a shimmy when taking off from a stop. My block is not original to the car and the bellhousing was not the matched piece for it. Also, on my motor (which was a std bore original 69 HP block) I had to use a .005 under timing chaing to get it tight as it needed to be ... two stock chains fit too loose. Anyway, I have to wonder if my trans input shaft is out of tolerance to the crank centerline (.005 is max allowed). I have read that this condition causes hard shifting and some vibration and clutch shimmy. Something to think about. Lord knows, it has me thinkin...... the thought of yarding out the trans on my recently restored car has me in a state of flux.....

I had the same problem a few years ago. I found out that a) the unit needs to break in and b) my pilot bearing had an issue when it got hot. I pulled it out and soaked the new one in oil and used a guide to drive it in and it worked great. The clutch adjust is where I would absolutely start first. Also check with Jamie Passion as he is the king of 4 speeds.

Good luck and keep us posted,
Joe

I had that problem when using Synthetic gear lube. Changed over to the standard gear lube and the problem went away.

Remove the clutch inspection cover from the bottom of the belhousing and set the clutch pressure plate fingers to the throwout bearing clearances at or as close to .060 as you can get them,ths will make the pedal ride a lot higher and start disengaging the clutch disc a lot sooner than when it has more air clearances It(air gap) will get wider as the clutch disc wears. Once that is set have someone push the clutch pedal down and then use a feeler gauge to see how much clutch disc to pressure plate and flywheel clearances you have, you need at least .060 or more The clutch disc is now dragging on the pressure plate and flywheel which is not letting the trans slow down and have no tension on the gear train when the clucth is disengaged, which ends up making it hard to move the sliders and shifter

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for - number to measure or setup to. I will start with this and go from there. Everything is new, as I mentioned before and have maybe 20 miles on the car since coming out of the garage.