Ok guys I love tuning carbs and making them run smooth as butter so I consider myself above most in understanding them and making them work.

My big block TQ seems to be flooding over and always on driver primary/accel pump side but I cant figure out why. Here are the eliminated things.

-Checked float levels was at 29/32 move to 1" no improvement
-No gaskets torn
-5.5psi on fuel pressure gauge
-Checked classic fuel well leaking, none and seems sealed good, even went so far as to remove bowl seal top with bowl full of fuel and let sit over night on clean paper, no drips
-always run none ethanol added fuel
-rubber x seals under main boosters in place and in good shape
-rebuilt last year
-no obvious cracks in the throttle plate or fuel well

but...
the cast holes below fuel well in throttle plates is always half full of fuel and it leaks out the driver side throttle shaft after its shut off, but again ive tried a drip test on wells as stated above, then starts hard like its flooded. Never hear fuel bubbling but throttle plate gasket and main carb/manifold gasket seems to be wet.

Carb runs GREAT!!!! down the road and is tuned well but this has me stumped and makes for some hard starting. also seems to bleed off some overnight but usually on driver side.

Am I just being stupid and the well is leaking even though I it passes drip test or am I missing something.

2 much pressure!

R.

Ok figured it out and jeez I was mad for a while cause it was still leaking...

Ok it was the X seal below the booster but it doesnt appear to be damaged, I found a small piece of junk in the booster well that could have been holding it up a little, but I thought I clean the bowl out so Im not for sure if its the seal or junk.

I found it because, again it was leaking only on the driver side and then out the shaft. I was looking down the Venturi but there was no obvious dripping. So I blew across the booster and the none leaking side (passenger) immediately pull fuel out the booster. I blew across the driver side and it wouldnt pull fuel out the booster. Then I saw it there was fuel sitting in the booster well around the booster where it should have been dry. The passenger side was dry so I know it was the x seal.

I have no idea how the car ran so good , must have just been the small piece of junk under it letting it just slightly leak but still pull from the booster with a strong signal. It is also possible I have a seal thats more damaged than I thought. But I just thought I would share my discovery for anyone else stumped or wondering how it turn out.

Took chunk of junk out and reassemble, still leaking, still see fuel around the booster wells in the Venturi so Ill get some new primary well seals and report back.

what is shocking is that the xrings still look just fine, I'm gonna go to the parts store and pick up 50¢ worth of slightly thicker oring and try it to see if it solves my prob.

I know this is the issue of leakage, not fuel pressure or leaky epoxy, or loose throttle shaft but thanks for the suggestions moparts.

Would like to thank nacho for the info in this thread

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...part=2&vc=1

Will post tomorrow with more info and update.

Well had an interesting day of parts chasing, I couldn't find a 3/32 thick oring so finally I settled on some metric f-Ing thing that is 2.5mm thick from my local hardware store and when it boils down to it amounts to 3/32 thick.

long story short all problems solved!!!!

the stock x orings under boosters just weren't thick enough. When I got ones thick enough no more leak down and can't see any fuel puddles and instant starts. Unlike nacho in above posted thread I actually had to go thicker and all I did was use standard orings.

just an fyi for carb tuners like me I think the x oring loose there elasticity and sealing power causing tuning problem.

total cost of fix 50¢ from local hardware store.

In the Hygrade 657C kits I used from NAPA there was 3 sets of X-rings in the kit. I normally used the square shoulder type x-ring with grooving as it seemed to seal the best or was just alittle thicker than the other ones. But I also rebuilt them using round buna o-rings too I had on hand.

One of the things that had me wondering maybe the new rebuild kits have thicker top plate gaskets than they used to causing the top plate to sit higher and off the sealing rings? Just a thought.

If there is such a thing....silicone is what our better O rings were made of.

BTW anyone reading this? Plastic see through filters will cloud, crack, and leak! The sight glass on our tankers had to be replaced frequently due to the ethanol.

DON'T use silicone

Look for Fluoroelastomer aka Viton o-rings. They will stand up to chemical attack and have a higher compression set that standard Nitrile aka Buna-N