I'm interested in making a gauge cluster to fit my '72 Dart which would attach where the original instrument panel goes (and keeping the stock dash/pad). I bought the car shell with no wiring at all and am making my own, so compatibility with the stock harness is not an issue.

I've never fabricated anything like this. What's the best way to go about it?
Mount aluminum sheet over the original plastic cluster? Bend a sheet to fit the opening and discard the original? I have a 3-3/8" Auto Meter speedo and am looking for the matching tach, so those two will be in the center where the old rectangular speedo was.
Any tricks, tips, etc. appreciated. Thanks.

This is a difficult question to answer because we do not know your skillz and tools. This job is a balance between what you can do and what looks decent/ok/great ! Just experiment with the materials you can work with till you come up with something that looks nice.

I've seen quite a few people on FABO use this...

http://peakdashes.com/

I made my own out of 3/16" aluminum. I used polished Marine rings for the gauges. used a stock heating pod from a 70 Dart. Stock switches...turn signals, hazards, and e-brake were LEDs

Closeup #1

CloseUp #2

Here's a couple options:

http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/products.asp

http://www.fastlanewest.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_206

Thanks for the tips (and links). Nice job, Pyper.

The Peak dashes look nice but are expensive. I hate even to spend over $100 for a piece of plastic but it would take me many hours to try and duplicate the A-body cluster which is not just a flat piece... probably the $130 part with the holes already cut would be the best buy.

I took a stock gauge panel and grinded down the high spots and took a piece of plexi cut to fit and epoxy it in .

I never had a problem cutting it . I didn't have a hole saw big enough so I used an alum carbide cutter in a die grinder. I didn't even cut out the old left it in for support.

How did you get enough clearance for the gauges behind the plexiglas if you didn't cut it out?

I just cut mine out with a saber saw except around the light and wiper switches... interesting to watch the heated plastic melt back together behind the cut, but it is easily fractured along the line. I'm going to get a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet, use the cardboard as a template, cut the holes out and trim the sides to fit, and fasten it to the cluster with a few screws. Saved $100

You will find that when you take Lexan and cut out three 2 5/8" holes plus a 4" hole for your speedo, it will become VERY flimsy. Even adding supports on the rear, if you tweak it one way, it may snap. I found some scrap metal cutoff's from a machine shop for 5 bucks and laid a paper template over what I wanted it to look like. It resembles an 71 A-Body Rally Dash. I had one that I traded parts for so I knew my dimensions. The center pod is usually "Performance" meter which I aptly changed to a vacuum gauge. AutoMeter does sell the 4-in-1 gauges here http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=3594 so maybe you could use one of those and a speedo if you want to keep it tidy. I wanted to spread out my instruments across my dash and have each one very visible as I drive. If you want to kick up any gauges, grab some PVC pipe and cut it at the angle you want, You don't want to do more than an eye moment to look down for the reading of the gauge, if you have to crick your neck then it will be annoying as time passes on. My angled necks were from Rex Marine in Riverside (if they are even in business anymore. They weren't cheap though, like $15 a piece but really sets off the dash

As for the 5 pounds of keys in my ignition....hahaha...what can I say...a bike lock, 2 keys for the Dart, a 1.5" Plastic Pentastar I stole off of the hood of a Diplomat. Even have a glass breaker handle and a small 8-ball on the end

Mist plastic with water while your cutting. I cut the back only were needed to fit new gauges. I used 2-1/8 . Do a search forabodies only guys has good pics.

I got a 3 ft piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet, 4" wide from McMaster-Carr, enough for a second try if necessary. A fair bit of later, it's not terrible for a first attempt, I think:

One question though... what piece is missing from the original wiper switch? It must be some kind of spacer that also has a rectangular slot to keep the switch from turning in the panel...

I made this for my shorty. I used the factory bezel and cut/fitted a piece of textured ABS from www.tapplastics.com. If you can find a store local to you the prices are better. They can cut it out for you also.. I bought 2 pieces for $10.00. Go with 3/16" or 1/4" for strength..