I am getting close to starting it up. This motor has not run since 1979. It is rebuilt so it should be a good running motor. You guys have a good check list to make sure something is not over looked. Also some tips on breaking in the cam ECT. Its been a long time for me. I did my purple car motor but that was 13 years ago and it is a roller motor. I been working on it over the winter with my 14 year old son. I am sure when it lights up he will be pumped up.

when you say it's not been run since 1979 , does that mean it's never been started since it's been rebuilt? if so I'd be worried about what assy lube was used when the motor was built, a friend bought a motor that was built a long time ago and never fired and the white lithium grease used was hard as a rock , just saying I'd be carefull and check it out.
russ

I took all the bearing caps off and plastic gauged all the bearings. All good there!

I do a few things before the fire up.... PRIME the
oil system while SLOWLY turning the crank around...
pre set the dist(if its a fixed dist... set the crank
to 30* before 0 and set the rotor to the number 1...
make sure it has fuel in the carb... when it
fires check for oil pressure then raise the revs to
2500 for the standard hyd cam break in for 25-30 minutes
cycling the revs some from 2000 to 2500 but dont idle
till the 30 minutes UNLESS you have problems then
ABORT and find your problem.... when you get the
engine running put your timing light on it and make
sure its about 34*.... make sure it has water in it
before you start... I like to do this outside so
you dont gas your self...... good luck

I did prime the oil and had my son turn the crank when priming to fill the crank. How do I get gas to the carb with a mechanical pump? The carb I am starting it with was off the running 318 last fall. Just using it for the start up. I plan on putting a rebuilt Holly on it but don't want to deal with the carb problem on start up.

Oil in engine and filter full of oil. Ideally you should prime the engine with the MP hex shaft and a drill. Set timing & fill carb with gas so engine will fire with as little cranking as possible. If you're unfamiliar with setting static timing rotate engine either by hand or with a remote starter switch with #1 plug out until #1 comes up on compression. Replace plug. Set the mark on damper for 10-12 degrees BTDC. Set distributor rotor to #1 plug wire with the reluctor lined up with magnetic pickup. Make sure engine and radiator is full of plain water, you can add anti-freeze after you're sure there aren't any water leaks. If the weather is warm it won't hurt to put a fan near the radiator. It helps to have an extra pair of eyes and hands handy in case of unexpected problems. A handy fire extinguisher is always reassuring. Either pump carb a couple of times or pour a small amount of gas down carb. Make sure key is set to run position and use your remote starter switch to crank engine. You can of course have someone start the engine with the key while you work the throttle. As soon as engine starts bring it up to 2,000-2,500 rpm. and keep it there for 20 minutes. Blipping the throttle occasionally helps& sounds neat too. Immediately check oil pressure and then look for leaks; gas, oil, water. Watch water temp, it shouldn't get over 210 F. 180-195 F. would be better. You can use a hose or a sprayer with plain water to spray on the radiator if necessary. Set total timing. After the 20 minute break in shut it down and inspect for leaks. After cool down change oil & filter. If no leaks add anti-freeze. Fire it back up and run the snot out of it to seat the rings. Hard acceleration in the higher gears and quickly backing off helps. Just don't run it at high rpm for prolonged periods. No land speed records just yet. Change oil & filter after 500 miles and you're good.

Everything that has been said, also, if possible, run it outside with the nose into the wind. This may help to cool it, as well as blow away fumes from paint, spilled oil, etc.