Just though I'd take a poll on how high of stall you guys get out of your converters foot braking.I have a 10 inch supposedly 5500 stall that is new.Could not get it to stall past 2200 without it pushing the car through the beams a few nights ago.Id have to believe that if I get my caltracs set up correctly,the car would run way better leaving at 3500 or better.Is it the converter or do all of you guys only get about the same out of yours without a trans brake?

You do know you have to go WOT to make the torque to
get the stall speed up... you cant just slowly go up
in the revs.... less torque and it stall less

So just whack it at the last second?That may be a problem.I was trying to bring it up as high as I could on the brake.I was under the impression I should be able to hold it at about 3500 or so and then flash it higher by flooring it......what's the correct way?

I had a custom built ten inch Continental converter that would push the tires through the beams at 2300 RPM just like yours, it would flash to 4400 to 4600 RPM in 1st gear(depending on track elevation and weather conditions) according to the VDO Extreme playback tach I broke it and switch to a T/A 8 inch race converter, it will foot stall 3600 RPM, that converter pick my car up two tenths and 2+ MPH in the 1/8 mile That converter would flash to 5600 to 5800 in 1 st gear It was fatser and quicker every converter and car combination needs to be tested to find out what works best with those parts

As with everything else race car related, "it depends". I know people who get their best footbrake launches from idle or a little over to people who come up on the converter more than me!

I put most of the emphasis on reaction time and that determines how high I bring the converter up from dead idle after I stage. That is normally 3,200 to 3,400. I can go a bit higher. But some people come up on the converter and bump into the stage light.

When I launch, the converter flashes to between 5,000 and 5,500, depending mostly on the weather and a little on if the car is set on "kill" or "bracket mode".

The looser the converter, the higher you can bring the rpm's up before "creeping". Brake system condition is also a factor. If your rear drums are starting to glaze, they will not hold the car as well. I found that periodic, very light sanding of the rear shoes helps. That's also when I check the brake adjustments and swap slicks from side-to-side.

I believe that rear brakes are more important in holding the car on the line than the fronts. If you can "harness" the power going to the rear tires, it will hold better than the skinny, small contact patch fronts regardless of how big & strong the FRONT (edited) brakes are.

A 10" converter rated at 5,500 stall just doesn't sound right. How high the converter flashes depends on torque, carb accelerator pump circuit, car weight and some other stuff. I have an Autometer playback tach. That is one of the best "tools" I ever got because it shows what the engine rpm's are actually doing rather than what you "think" it's doing. One example is that it's possible to actually see a flat spot (to a certain degree). (Unfortunately, I never got the program that would let me print out the graphs.) The converter won't flash as high as when it has a quick, clean & steady rise in rpms. When you see the converter flashing higher, than something is working better - i.e.: better air, better carb tune, water temp is more "compatible" with the carb tune-up, etc. But the converter still needs to be in the ballpark for your engine combo and it's potential.

Like I said, with all the variables, "it depends". But off-hand, if your engine can handle it, I'd consider a smaller/looser converter. I just never heard of a 10" converter "rated" that high. 5,500 would be 8" territory. But the "rating" is just a ballpark figure. More torque/big block will flash more than less torque/small block.

Hmmmm... The converter was actually bought as a gift a year or so ago.Supposedly they had it built to my engine specs,but being that I didn't order it myself that could be wrong.Maybe I need an 8 inch.The car left really slow.I have a few videos but don't know how to post them.If I can figure it out I'll try to post so you can see it lag lol.But I could maybe use new shoes in the rear.It all adds up it seems.I had a TA 3500 that seemed to foot brake better.Thats what I was getting my 1.44 60's out of even with my Cal Tracs not dialed in.I was hoping the new setup would leave better.Engine seems way more responsive with the new carb.I was hoping for big things

A friend of mine (Dave Sullivan) had a 340 Duster that used to win just about everything he entered. It was a mid ten footbrake car with an A-1 8 inch. It would stall to 5300. To get the car to hold we used to reline the brake pads with forklift linings,(soft linings) and after about every 5th race you had to break the glaze with some emery paper.
Sacramento clutch and brake used to do this but I believe at least in calif they cannot do this anymore. Here is not a very good pic of the car at Sac Raceway.

That's a beautiful car.I dig them all lettered up.Now that you mention it,the brakes are probably 10 years old.And for a while I'm sure the power braking at the line didnt help.I'll have to check them.

Here is a little better pic,

Damn that's a sweet car.Is it still around?

He sold it 6 or 7 years ago, It's still in the Sacramento area but I do not think the new owner has done anything with it.