Asked marcin to clarify some questions (engine running temp, plugs pictures). Will post info upon receipt.
So far we have progress!

SP
Our cars photo attached.

If it puffs black smoke, two accelerator pumps try moving the accelerator pump arms to the lowest hole on the arm, shortest stroke As far as burning and stinking at idle try leaning,with the motor running, screwing them in,the ile mixure screws very slowly, 1/4 turn each on all four and wait for a while for the unburnt fuel in the intake manifold and exhaust system to clear out and then try again until it is lean enough to not stink at idle BTW, make sure first that the motor is running on the idle circuit only, check the primary throttle blades to see if they are opened enough to be in the transition slots instead of below them If they are, close them down so they aren't running on the transition circuit and adjust again, look at the metering rod pistons again also

It may want even more initial! Wouldn't be surprised if it wanted 20* which would clean up the idle characteristics even more. Don't settle just because ti runs better now. Get it right!

Getting the initial done, and you know what you need for total, getting the slots length correct is easy. If an MP, there's a table with slot lengths if you haven't seen it. Mallory, use drill bits to set slot length.

Another thought of carb issue that isn't really rooted in the induction system... shocking...

We'll keep trying. So far it was not running that bad:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtEj-jYwIHo

You guys are crazy, I'd never attemp that in such a tight area...lol sounds ok, would like to hear a full wide open pass. It appears his lights are on behind the grill????

Well i wouldnt daredriving my challenger that way! The auxiliary lights are behind the grill due to day lights requirement. all year we have to drive with front lights on. Yeah even when stuck in traffic. Dumb.

I'll jump in on this thread being that I have Dual Quads, have a close RB setup, and I live in the EU..

Are your carb's dialed in exactly the same? Do you have both 600s (Which I think is over carb'd) with the same metering rods/jets? Did you follow the graph in the Edelbrock manual with the steps left and right / up and down to get exactly where you need to be? Before I installed my Dual Quad I knew I was going to need an Air/Fuel Meter. Wideband. If you can integrate that on to your exhaust you will be able to see exactly where you need to go with those numbers. I run an Isky 280MegaCam, Dual 500s in a Progressive setup. 440 has a mechanical advance Distributor, Initial is set to 16º, the bushing on my distributor is 18º so I get the full 34º by about 2600rpm (I don't remember the springs in the distributor to be honest...I have set it once...and I don't open it anymore). I do have the benefit of the Timing Advance dial so I can start my engine cold with about 48º....and then zero her back down when she warms up to the 34º so everything is at the distributor.

As for the fuel concerns, I dunno how Poland is. Greece is crap with fuel...I run the standard 95 Octane even though I built the engine to run on California's 89 Octane. Still, the 95 they sell here is more than likely crap no matter where you go but I will never fill up at Avin, BP, Or Shell. If you have it, I use EKO or RevOil.

Your best friend for that setup is going to be an air/fuel meter though. You can run a data logger if you want but I was dialing my engine 3 years back when I slipped the CH-28 on along with the aluminum cylinder heads. Took me about 2 weeks to do ($10/gallon) but I finally got her where I wanted her.

P.S. Sucks about the daytime lights requirement...Luckily we don't have that issue here, but then again, I am on Classic car plates and I would be exempt from such laws

OK, here are the plugs - #1 and #7. What ya think?

eddies are 500cfm each.

we have just a little ethanol in fuels here, generally we do not buy cheapest gas at supermarkets, we use brand fuel: BP, shell.

Those plugs look good to me, the one that is the darker color looks like it may have oil on it, is it shiny when you guys look at it or is it the picture? If it is shiny fix that, there shuld not be any oil on the plugs, they should be dull looking, not shiny It is not uncommon for both B and RB motors, especially after machining them, to have oil suck up into the intake manifold from the lifter galley due to the intake valley pan leaking or letting oil be sucked into the intake manifold One easy thing to try is the next step colder plug to help cool the combustion chambers down to help eliminate pinging What brand and heat range are those plugs? Good luck, keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down

Looks like oil. Check the intake for a good seal.

Indeed # 1 is a bit glossy so that might be oil. # 7 is flat black.
Plugs are NGK BCPR6E and this is 3 step colder than the first set we used at the beginning. There was no change in engine behavior (pinging, dieseling) after jumping to colder plugs.

IMO the mixture at cruising rpm is right, it's the idle that is overrich.

Can't you just get 98 octane anymore in Poland? Especially with 11:1, I wouldn't even consider 95.
Here in the Netherlands 98Fuel is still readily available.
95Fuel is considered partswasher here, albeit an expensive one

I have similar problems with my 496" stroker, 84cc Eddy heads and dual longram-intakes. 10.5cr.
Engine pings vigorously the moment you put some throttle in it and the rpm get up to 2300-2500rpm.

In my case both carbs are placed in pretty much the hottest corners of the enginebay, right above the exhaustheaders left and right. Once the underhood temps get hot enough one has to feather the throttle to prevent pinging.

Maybe your friends car could use some cold-air intake system, just like mine needs badly.

As Cab mentioned, that one plug looks oily, that can cause your "pinging" I'd check under that intake. I had a 440 that leaked, I didn't even know it until I swaped out intake manifolds.

TOO RICH: check fuel psi/float levels/float saturation/float mechanically hanging up/bad needle seat. Get the throttles closed & initial bumped up if needed & if so shorten the slots to 36 total. PINGING: retarding the cam/slowing the adv "springs" (too much) are bandaids. colder plugs help a little/cold air induction helps some. You need to bite the bullet & proportion in some race gas OCTANE. If you build a monster you gotta feed it properly

Fuel is $7-8 a gallon... and you want him to go and buy race-gas at double/triple that price?

here this will fix your det problem... and you can eevn use 89.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sno-20001/overview/

I use one and it works