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Pretty sure the high load bearing is well over a hundred dollars. Could be the first item. Other is probably "case and main shaft" possibly.

Not sure what groom gears means. Clean them up, finish in some way?

http://www.taylor-race.com/isotropic.cfm

I think the OP knows that he spent some money. Sounds like he is just looking for some help rather than getting his investment picked apart.

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I dug out the paperwork and it was done 10 years ago, the cost was more then I remembered but that included a new Centerforce Clutch, so my memory was a bit off. This is what I can read from the paperwork, his writing is not very good so I cannot make it all out.

Parts

1 m/c114b $210
1 T.O. Brr gssb $84
1 Input house $95
1 Centerforce Clutch $510 18 Spline
4 Syro Brass $42
Hemi 4 speed case w- something shaft $75
1 Spedo gear $22
1 pilot Ber $17
Flywheel bolts $23
Oil $6

Description of work
Groom Gears $195
R&R 18 Spline $640
Turn Fly $50
labor $885
Parts $1092

So this is what was done, I will be the first to say I dont have allot of Knowledge on this so I reached out here. so from what I have provided maybe gives a better idead of what was done. I still dont think it should of made the sound of grinding gears going to 4th.

I know I should have spoke up then when I had it done, and I am going back to him cause I have heard he is a good guy, I dont have nothing to loose. him saying 'Just shift faster' is lame, any idea what he did not do to cause this ? Thanks Guys

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Well I do a few of these on the side and it seems like your builder really steps on the parts more than he needs to
It's hard to decipher some of his charges but a few of the parts are right on target as far as market value is concerned.His labor prices are VERY high even for pro-builder shops out there.
18 spline boxes are expensive to build but yours seems to have been very needy in the labor department.When an 833 trans is built correctly with syncros you don't need to "shift it faster"
You didn't indicate what shop you used but if you live in the Akron Ohio area I would be glad to take a second look at it for you
Gus

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Gus for a shop the prices arent too bad.I paid almost 50 bucks for a timken TOB for my 23 spline 65 and that was shop price about 8 or so years ago.R&R the trans clutch and tear the trans down requires some decent labor.I see the story changes as first it sounded like a complete rebuild.Now its R&R the trans clutch etc.When I had the 65s trans done back in 69 it cost me about 450.Guy that did it replace syncros and slider and some bearing etc.He only charged me 50 bucks labor as I had the trans out.That and I knew him.Rocky

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Gus for a shop the prices arent too bad.I paid almost 50 bucks for a timken TOB for my 23 spline 65 and that was shop price about 8 or so years ago.R&R the trans clutch and tear the trans down requires some decent labor.I see the story changes as first it sounded like a complete rebuild.Now its R&R the trans clutch etc.When I had the 65s trans done back in 69 it cost me about 450.Guy that did it replace syncros and slider and some bearing etc.He only charged me 50 bucks labor as I had the trans out.That and I knew him.Rocky

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Could you please tell me what R&R means ?

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I agree, try using ATF. It might just help.
Another question for you: Are you running the stock bell housing, or is there an aftermarket scatter shield in there? Like a Lakewood?
Since fourth gear is the only gear that it grinds into, i am suspecting misalignment of the input shaft caused by a bell housing bore that is not concentric with the centerline of the crankshaft. Aftermarket scatter shields are notorious for this, But it can happen with the stock Bellhousing too.

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I am Such a IDIOT, the problem is shifting into 3rd NOT 4th, when I go into 3rd it makes the nasty crunch, but not if I shift very fast, just a normal shift it does that. sorry for the mix up

Thanks for all the replys so far.

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I don't know where your buying your bearings but Brewer Performance sells complete rebuild kits for the 18 spline for $129 bucks which includes the bearing , syncro's gaskets etc. They will also go through your transmission and fix it right.

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Are you running synthetic lubricant? That could be the problem. If you're not running ATF try that and see if it helps.

Did you Dial in the bell housing? That could be it as well.

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Gus for a shop the prices arent too bad.I paid almost 50 bucks for a timken TOB for my 23 spline 65 and that was shop price about 8 or so years ago.R&R the trans clutch and tear the trans down requires some decent labor.I see the story changes as first it sounded like a complete rebuild.Now its R&R the trans clutch etc.When I had the 65s trans done back in 69 it cost me about 450.Guy that did it replace syncros and slider and some bearing etc.He only charged me 50 bucks labor as I had the trans out.That and I knew him.Rocky

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Could you please tell me what R&R means ?

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Remove & Re-instal

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Joel, I was just wondering, I use atf too, ditto on roughing up the cones. Several years back I got lambasted on Moparts for telling people to use ATF is why I ask, after 30 years of working on these trans the ones that come in here with atf are always in better shape, but what do I know.

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I have had many 833 transmissions on the bench and I have had a few with ATF that ate the rollers on the cluster pin and one had actually ruined the cluster gear itself
They might look nice and clean with ATF but when I open one up a prefer that old smelly brown 40 year old gear oil that keeps them from rusting when they sit for 30 years
Gus

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Joel, I was just wondering, I use atf too, ditto on roughing up the cones. Several years back I got lambasted on Moparts for telling people to use ATF is why I ask, after 30 years of working on these trans the ones that come in here with atf are always in better shape, but what do I know.

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I have had many 833 transmissions on the bench and I have had a few with ATF that ate the rollers on the cluster pin and one had actually ruined the cluster gear itself
They might look nice and clean with ATF but when I open one up a prefer that old smelly brown 40 year old gear oil that keeps them from rusting when they sit for 30 years
Gus

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Joel, I was just wondering, I use atf too, ditto on roughing up the cones. Several years back I got lambasted on Moparts for telling people to use ATF is why I ask, after 30 years of working on these trans the ones that come in here with atf are always in better shape, but what do I know.

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I have had many 833 transmissions on the bench and I have had a few with ATF that ate the rollers on the cluster pin and one had actually ruined the cluster gear itself
They might look nice and clean with ATF but when I open one up a prefer that old smelly brown 40 year old gear oil that keeps them from rusting when they sit for 30 years
Gus

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Here we go again, if you can flatfoot shift your car with gear oil, that it is the right choice for you, us lesser folk need atf to do that.

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Only if you're feeble,today nobody wants to put any effort into anything.If you really have a problem,get an auto and then all you will need to do is put it in drive and go.( If you can find the strength to push the gas pedal)

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So if the trans lasts 150,000 miles with gear lube, or 75,000 miles with ATF but shifts better, I have a choice: my trans will be worn out when I'm 90 years old, or my trans will be worn out when I'm 110 years old....

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I never had a problem shifting an 833 with the CORRECT gear oil in it Went 31 passes in a row one weekend without missing a gear with an old worn out 23 spline box.
Must be just pure driver talent
Gus