I put front brake conversion kit mannual( new rotors, calibers, hoses,MC, spindle, pads) about 3 weeks ago. Had heating up rotors problem and front wheels being real tight to spin when getting back from 3 mile trips. Changed out MC (mannual), no heating up problems or tight wheels, but still a hard pedal and not much braking. Bled lines with hand vaccum pump 2 times, and once with helper pumping up pedal 3 or 4 pumps and holding, me releasing bleed screw with just a dribble fluid coming out of each screw,(just a couple a drops). What is wrong?And also do I need a power brake booster/MC? This is a 71 B-body with a mannual drum brakes oringally. How much trouble to put power on and where to buy booster.MC? Thanks

so others better at this will respond, but basically it sounds like your first master cylinder still had the residual valve in it.
keeps 10 psi on the lines for drum brakes.

you replaced it with one that did not have the residual valve, but the diameter of the piston changed. so your braking effort changed.

There are specific recommendations for manual disc brakes and the master cylinder you should use.
it will be more pedal travel but easier braking.

I think they will need to know what calipers you are using to give you that recommendation.

Thanks, the only thing I know is they came with kit from Right Stuff, and replacement parts are for a 73 A body from parts house. How about the dribble drops when bleeding brakes with a helper pumping up brakes and holding, I was especting pressure on fluid.

Sounds like your hoses have collapsed. Are they new or recycled from another project?

They are new hoses. I will check for blockages tommorrow. Any ideas on power brake booster and MC and how hard to add since it is a mannual car?

Not sure on B-body but in a "C" you need to change the pedal assembly.

After you find/fix the blockage you might be Ok with the manual brakes

Could my distribution block under MC be bad since I am not getting much fluid to all 4 bleeder screws?

Hey Robert, I unhooked brake lines from MC ports and had helper pump pedal, good stream from both ports. I took loose rear line from my new proportion valve and good fluid form pumping. Took bleed screw out each front wheel and pumped fluid. Buttoned everything up and bled again with hand pump with a cup full out each wheel (plastic cup that comes with pump kit). Drove and pedal feels a little better, not as hard pedal as before. Guess i will keep bleeding. Thanks dave

Progress I wonder what the blockage was. The symptoms sure didnt sound like air but sometimes they are tricky.