Hey guys im trying to get my girlfriends D 100 moving on its own power again. I bought a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I installed both componets, bleed master cylinder and lines out at slave cylinder. I have seen no air bubbles what so ever. The Clutch system is working but i cannot get it into gear when running, only when not running. Does anyone have any info that may help me. I am new at the hydraulic clutches, im used to the Z bar setup and from what i have found online there is no adjustment. Any help would be great!

Thanks,

Steve

I had one of those & I'm still kicking myself for letting it go in a moment of weakness. Can you persuade her to sell it to me as that's not a girl vehicle it just doesn't look right. To answer your Q extend the length of the threaded rod so the clutch throwout bearing/hat fingers are moved farther in so the disc can disengage. EDIT Even Cab agrees that she should sell the truck to me

Hey Guys thanks for the help! She loves the truck, its not going anywere

I had a truck that sat a while, the clutch disc was rusted to the flywheel. I started it in gear and drove it around till it broke loose.

A few tips gleaned from my '64DogD100:
1. Brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder are the same part except there may be a residual pressure valve in the brake MC.
2. My clutch hardline cracked right at the start of the flare on the slave cylinder.
3. Depending on when it was built, you may only need one brake front wheel cylinder kit to do both sides. My truck has single piston wheel cylinders.
4. The plate on the drivers door jamb tells you gear ratio. If it has Sure Grip there is an extra smaller plate next to it.
5. The Truck and Van Moparts board is full of guys who would like to help.
6. If it is a Poly 318, PM me for some tips on that.

R.