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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414527
04/05/13 07:30 PM
04/05/13 07:30 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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alright I missed that your ran the alt directly to the starter relay. I was thinking that you just (only) did Nacho's bulkhead bypass so yes what you have circled is less critical than it would have been but I'd sure try to move the loom down so I could solder it & if not make the crimps TIGHT
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1414528
04/05/13 08:14 PM
04/05/13 08:14 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,011
Sac, CA
mopowers
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Quote:
alright I missed that your ran the alt directly to the starter relay. I was thinking that you just (only) did Nacho's bulkhead bypass so yes what you have circled is less critical than it would have been but I'd sure try to move the loom down so I could solder it & if not make the crimps TIGHT
Instead of splicing them with butt connectors, would it be better to just install male and female connectors and use the bulkhead connector to join them?? Or is the butt connector a better joint???
Thanks for all you help. Electrical work is kinda foreign to me. So, I really appreciate your input.
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414529
04/05/13 09:35 PM
04/05/13 09:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Lincoln Nebraska
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I think it'd be pretty close especially with some new fresh brass terminals crimped/soldered; NAPA 725145 female and 725147 male and in addition with them crimped the right amount so they fit together TO EACH OTHER tight along with some dielectric grease & they would give you ease of dissassembly if ever needed but I'd still prefer a good soldered joint either 2 wires together or both wires crimped/soldered to each end of a butt connector
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414532
04/08/13 12:34 PM
04/08/13 12:34 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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Yes you should be fine but the fusible link comment opens another can of worms goggle it read about the downsides
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: jcc]
#1414533
04/08/13 12:45 PM
04/08/13 12:45 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,011
Sac, CA
mopowers
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Quote:
Yes you should be fine but the fusible link comment opens another can of worms goggle it read about the downsides
Yeah, I know they aren't the most popular things in the world, but it's what I had laying around. Would I be better off installing inline fuses? If so, what amp rating would I need. I basically wired the ammeter bypass just as the MAD article suggested.
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414534
04/08/13 01:56 PM
04/08/13 01:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
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Didn't the factory just use crimped connections? The only soldered connectin I know of is in the main harness under the hood.  This is all I've ever used, and have had no issues. Just need to weather-proof anything exposed to the elements.
I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: bboogieart]
#1414535
04/09/13 10:19 AM
04/09/13 10:19 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 183
Charleston, SC
bronco9588
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Charleston, SC
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Just an FYI, dielectric grease does NOT conduct electricity, nor should you ever use a grease that conducts electricity in an automotive application. I would recommend that you look into using flux instead of dialectic grease for your connections. I am sure the dialectic may perform like a flux but a flux is more in line with what you are doing.
'73 Charger Petty Blue, Black Vinyl, and Gill Slits
727 torque-flight
400 BB Chrysler
8 3/4 rear
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: bronco9588]
#1414536
04/09/13 10:38 AM
04/09/13 10:38 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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do you mean an additional special flux for the solder during the soldering process or something special to put on the soldered connection when you're done soldering before you tape/shrink wrap it or do you mean a special flux to put on the brass terminals' interface before you push em together
Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/09/13 10:44 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: bronco9588]
#1414537
04/09/13 10:39 AM
04/09/13 10:39 AM
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Sac, CA
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Quote:
Just an FYI, dielectric grease does NOT conduct electricity, nor should you ever use a grease that conducts electricity in an automotive application. I would recommend that you look into using flux instead of dialectic grease for your connections. I am sure the dialectic may perform like a flux but a flux is more in line with what you are doing.
It does help prevent corrosion though, right? That's the reason I use it. I only use flux when I solder. Is this completely wrong? It's just how I was taught.
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414538
04/09/13 10:45 AM
04/09/13 10:45 AM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
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Colorado
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Quote:
What's the best way to splice two wires together?? Do you guys prefer to use bare butt splice connectors, then solder them, and insulate with a wrap of electrical tape and some heat shrink?
Or is it better to just twist the stripped wires together and solder them WITHOUT using a butt splice connector, and give them a wrap of tape and some heat shrink???
My rule of thumb is to never splice anything larger than 14 gauge. If it is 12 gauge or larger, I rewire from end to end. For stuff 14 to 18 I solder and wrap. Smaller than that, butt splice, solder, whatever is handy.
I came up in the two way radio world. Two things you never ever spliced: The A lead to the battery (usually 8 to 10 gauge) and coax cable.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: mopowers]
#1414539
04/09/13 11:51 AM
04/09/13 11:51 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 183
Charleston, SC
bronco9588
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Charleston, SC
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Dielectric grease is great for connections that don't have solder (i.e. a pin to pin connection that is just metal to metal.) From what it sounded like, you were planning on greasing up a pair of wires and then soldering. The purpose of flux is to prevent oxidization of the wires while they are heated yet not covered by solder yet. Corrosion increases at hot temperatures and will prevent good flow of solder. I like what the avionics guy mentioned about cleaning the connection. Properly heat shrinking a (clean) connection prevents future water and atmosphere exposure. The junction should not corrode any longer; application of dialectic grease is unnecessary at a soldered junction.
On an aside, but related to the conversation, I solidly prescribe to the butt connection, solder, and shrink wrap methodology. Defiantly get the klein 1005 tool. From my understanding in aviation, they rarely if ever solder a connection for fatigue purposes. With that being said, they are using several hundred dollar crimping tools that can get the perfect pressure. I would rather suffer from fatigue (inside of heat wrap) several thousands of miles down the road than suffer from an improper crimp parting 2 miles down the road. A really good crimp should have a pull test and then a soldering.
As far as a soldered joint heating up causing the solder to melt... the wire insulation would melt before the solder would ever melt. If a junction/ terminal is doing this, it was improperly designed or created (with or without solder). I am not buying what is being sold. Whilst I am not a wire engineer, I think you will find that the solder decreases the locations resistance as current carrying material fills in all the voids. It will also increase the tensile strength of the junction.
Fatigue issues can be mitigated by proper support of the wire...
If for any reason you want to discuss these concepts, I would talk to Mark at MAD Electrical. The guy can talk your ear off about the smallest details.
'73 Charger Petty Blue, Black Vinyl, and Gill Slits
727 torque-flight
400 BB Chrysler
8 3/4 rear
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Re: Splicing Wires???
[Re: bronco9588]
#1414540
04/09/13 12:12 PM
04/09/13 12:12 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,011
Sac, CA
mopowers
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Quote:
Dielectric grease is great for connections that don't have solder (i.e. a pin to pin connection that is just metal to metal.) From what it sounded like, you were planning on greasing up a pair of wires and then soldering. The purpose of flux is to prevent oxidization of the wires while they are heated yet not covered by solder yet. Corrosion increases at hot temperatures and will prevent good flow of solder. I like what the avionics guy mentioned about cleaning the connection. Properly heat shrinking a (clean) connection prevents future water and atmosphere exposure. The junction should not corrode any longer; application of dialectic grease is unnecessary at a soldered junction.
On an aside, but related to the conversation, I solidly prescribe to the butt connection, solder, and shrink wrap methodology. Defiantly get the klein 1005 tool. From my understanding in aviation, they rarely if ever solder a connection for fatigue purposes. With that being said, they are using several hundred dollar crimping tools that can get the perfect pressure. I would rather suffer from fatigue (inside of heat wrap) several thousands of miles down the road than suffer from an improper crimp parting 2 miles down the road. A really good crimp should have a pull test and then a soldering.
As far as a soldered joint heating up causing the solder to melt... the wire insulation would melt before the solder would ever melt. If a junction/ terminal is doing this, it was improperly designed or created (with or without solder). I am not buying what is being sold. Whilst I am not a wire engineer, I think you will find that the solder decreases the locations resistance as current carrying material fills in all the voids. It will also increase the tensile strength of the junction.
Fatigue issues can be mitigated by proper support of the wire...
If for any reason you want to discuss these concepts, I would talk to Mark at MAD Electrical. The guy can talk your ear off about the smallest details.
I was able to solder all of the connections except for the 2 under the dash. For those, I just crimped, put a wrap of electrical tape and dielectric grease on it, then heat shrink. I think I'll be fine. Thanks for the input though.
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