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383vs400 crankshaft #1410703
03/29/13 01:37 PM
03/29/13 01:37 PM
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jeff500 Offline OP
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Ive got a good running 400 out of a 76 newport that im wanting to put in a dart.i want to tear it down and put new rod & main bearings in it along with new gaskets,oil pump,timing chain,small cam and put on a set of closed chamber 915 heads and hope for 10-1 comp.should i use the 400 crank or should i use a 383 steel crank????

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: jeff500] #1410704
03/29/13 01:58 PM
03/29/13 01:58 PM
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I alway's prefer using a steel crank, but keep in mind you'll have to have the engine balanced again if you change cranks.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: Performance Only] #1410705
03/29/13 02:52 PM
03/29/13 02:52 PM
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Shelby mi.
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depends on what hp level you are going to build. street motor keep 400 crank it is fine.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: jeff500] #1410706
03/29/13 03:09 PM
03/29/13 03:09 PM
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The 915 heads with the original 400 pistons won't get you anywhere near 10-1 compression.

You probably wouldn't need to rebalance the assembly with a forged 383 crank because the piston weight isn't that much different. While the 400 piston is larger in diameter, the pin height is lower.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: John_Kunkel] #1410707
03/29/13 03:29 PM
03/29/13 03:29 PM
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Quote:


The 915 heads with the original 400 pistons won't get you anywhere near 10-1 compression.

You probably wouldn't need to rebalance the assembly with a forged 383 crank because the piston weight isn't that much different. While the 400 piston is larger in diameter, the pin height is lower.




John, the counterweights are totally different from a 383 to the 400 cast cranks.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: John_Kunkel] #1410708
03/29/13 03:39 PM
03/29/13 03:39 PM

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Quote:


The 915 heads with the original 400 pistons won't get you anywhere near 10-1 compression.




I calculate that if the OP can get the heads down to 72 cc's (and they'll need to be milled for that), run steel shim head gaskets, then assuming the pistons are .100 in the hole at TDC (which is about what the stockers run), the compression ratio would only be 9 to one.

At 78 cc's, the CR would only be 8.6 to one.

At 90 cc's, you're looking at 7.8 to one.

Put some thick Fel-Pro 1009 head gaskets on it instead of steel shims, and knock another 2-3 tenths off any of the above figures.

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: jeff500] #1410709
03/29/13 04:07 PM
03/29/13 04:07 PM
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Balance factors: 383 steel crank vs. 400 cast crank.
They both use the same rod.
They both use a piston that's the same or very close weight.
383 cast cranks used exactly the same factory imbalance as the 383 or 400 cast cranks. And they were somewhat interchangeable on the assembly line, between cast and forged 383s.

My opinion is if you remove the 400 cast crank and swap in a 383 forged crank with the 383 harmonic damper and flywheel/torque converter, you will have a typical Mopar factory balance job on the result.
The Mopar balance jobs aren't known for their precision, but we didn't hear about any problems back in the day. Now that everyone is balancing to a gram or less, ANY Mopar factory balance job can be improved. But don't expect a noticeable difference.
So swap away!

And, if you're hoping for 10:1 compression without changing pistons, dream on...you'll never get there.

R.

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: dogdays] #1410710
03/29/13 04:41 PM
03/29/13 04:41 PM
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Quote:

Balance factors: 383 steel crank vs. 400 cast crank.
They both use the same rod.
They both use a piston that's the same or very close weight.
383 cast cranks used exactly the same factory imbalance as the 383 or 400 cast cranks. And they were somewhat interchangeable on the assembly line, between cast and forged 383s.

My opinion is if you remove the 400 cast crank and swap in a 383 forged crank with the 383 harmonic damper and flywheel/torque converter, you will have a typical Mopar factory balance job on the result.
The Mopar balance jobs aren't known for their precision, but we didn't hear about any problems back in the day. Now that everyone is balancing to a gram or less, ANY Mopar factory balance job can be improved. But don't expect a noticeable difference.
So swap away!

And, if you're hoping for 10:1 compression without changing pistons, dream on...you'll never get there.

R.




We'll just have to agree to disagree on that. I've balanced a lot of mopar engines and what your saying is not what i've seen in actual practice.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: dogdays] #1410711
03/29/13 04:56 PM
03/29/13 04:56 PM
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jeff500 Offline OP
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Thanks everyone for all the good info.i wasnt sure what the compression was on a stock 400 but was hopeing that useing the 915s and some mill work that i could get real closr to 10-1 comp.i knew that the comp was low but did not realize that it was that low......yes its just going to b a half ass street motor for my 17 year old son.i had some parts laying around so i thought instead of having the 400 crank polished,i would polish a 383 crank and b somewhat better. Lol

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: jeff500] #1410712
03/29/13 05:18 PM
03/29/13 05:18 PM
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If just trying to throw something together that will run, then use the 400 crank and disregard my two cents. But..... Considering the motor is apart, and a balance job will cost him less than $200, I'd use the forged crank and have it balanced. At the same time he can have the crank magged to make sure its good (I wouldn't dream of using an unknown crank without doing this).



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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: StealthWedge67] #1410713
03/29/13 11:37 PM
03/29/13 11:37 PM
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Please excuse my lack of knowledge but what does the OP need to get 10-1 in his engine? Closed chambered heads, mill them, deck the block a bit, thin head gaskets, yes? How much more would he need?

Would turning down the rod journals to 010 undersized but doing it like 440 rod journals are offset ground to BBC size do anything to help or is that wasted effort?

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: ProStock1320] #1410714
03/30/13 03:59 AM
03/30/13 03:59 AM
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Quote:

Please excuse my lack of knowledge but what does the OP need to get 10-1 in his engine? Closed chambered heads, mill them, deck the block a bit, thin head gaskets, yes? How much more would he need?

Would turning down the rod journals to 010 undersized but doing it like 440 rod journals are offset ground to BBC size do anything to help or is that wasted effort?




You could spend yourself poor at the machinist to reinvent the whole thing, or you could spend a few hundred on pistons. I've driven myself bats with the math on this puzzle... just buy the damn pistons!

That said... i have a No-buck zero-deck 400 ready for the rebuild in my shop. Found a standard bore re-cond. 400 at the junkyard, free in trade. Had some .030" over 440 pistons (stock low comp, perfect comp ht. for lowdeck) kicking around. Enough rods to build a V700, and a couple steel 383 cranks. Bore the 400 to just 4.35", flycut the pistons, balance it all and pow! Zero-deck/steel crank/balanced 400 to go with some nice 516 heads and .040" quench. Total cost? $125 + machining/balancing. Kinda hokey... but i bet it screams.

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: Performance Only] #1410715
03/30/13 04:31 PM
03/30/13 04:31 PM
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Rio Linda, CA
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Quote:


We'll just have to agree to disagree on that. I've balanced a lot of mopar engines and what your saying is not what i've seen in actual practice.




Some actual numbers would bolster your argument. As you know, machine shop balance and factory assembly line balance are way different.

The forged crank for the 1972 400 has the same part number (2268114) as the 383 from 1962-1971 which tells us there is no difference in the cranks.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: John_Kunkel] #1410716
03/30/13 09:37 PM
03/30/13 09:37 PM
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Quote:

Quote:


We'll just have to agree to disagree on that. I've balanced a lot of mopar engines and what your saying is not what i've seen in actual practice.




Some actual numbers would bolster your argument. As you know, machine shop balance and factory assembly line balance are way different.

The forged crank for the 1972 400 has the same part number (2268114) as the 383 from 1962-1971 which tells us there is no difference in the cranks.




John, 71 was the last year for the 383 and as you know, 72 was the first year for the 400. It stands to reason they wanted to deplete the old 383 cranks. I think we all know they'll physically interchange dimensionally. That does not mean that the component weights were the same. At the factory all they had to do was drill the counterweights differently. The pistons are not close enough in weight to just swap cranks from a 383 to a 400 and not rebalance it.
At some point you'd have to decide what is close enough, right? So in your opinion, what would be close enough? 30, 40, 60, 100 grams? typically anything more than 1 Oz.-inch will cause problems. (28 grams)


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: Performance Only] #1410717
03/30/13 09:56 PM
03/30/13 09:56 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:


We'll just have to agree to disagree on that. I've balanced a lot of mopar engines and what your saying is not what i've seen in actual practice.




Some actual numbers would bolster your argument. As you know, machine shop balance and factory assembly line balance are way different.

The forged crank for the 1972 400 has the same part number (2268114) as the 383 from 1962-1971 which tells us there is no difference in the cranks.




John, 71 was the last year for the 383 and as you know, 72 was the first year for the 400. It stands to reason they wanted to deplete the old 383 cranks. I think we all know they'll physically interchange dimensionally. That does not mean that the component weights were the same. At the factory all they had to do was drill the counterweights differently. The pistons are not close enough in weight to just swap cranks from a 383 to a 400 and not rebalance it.
At some point you'd have to decide what is close enough, right? So in your opinion, what would be close enough? 30, 40, 60, 100 grams? typically anything more than 1 Oz.-inch will cause problems. (28 grams)




The factory tried to maintain 14 grams or less.. but
I know that varied somewhat

Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: Performance Only] #1410718
03/31/13 11:07 AM
03/31/13 11:07 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:


We'll just have to agree to disagree on that. I've balanced a lot of mopar engines and what your saying is not what i've seen in actual practice.




Some actual numbers would bolster your argument. As you know, machine shop balance and factory assembly line balance are way different.

The forged crank for the 1972 400 has the same part number (2268114) as the 383 from 1962-1971 which tells us there is no difference in the cranks.




John, 71 was the last year for the 383 and as you know, 72 was the first year for the 400. It stands to reason they wanted to deplete the old 383 cranks. I think we all know they'll physically interchange dimensionally. That does not mean that the component weights were the same. At the factory all they had to do was drill the counterweights differently. The pistons are not close enough in weight to just swap cranks from a 383 to a 400 and not rebalance it.
At some point you'd have to decide what is close enough, right? So in your opinion, what would be close enough? 30, 40, 60, 100 grams? typically anything more than 1 Oz.-inch will cause problems. (28 grams)




The big issue is whether or not the crank balance is internal (no added weight to flywheel/converter) due to being forged instead of cast. Weight balance is way differemt due to offset balancers and weight pads (flywheel/converter) on the cast crank assemblies. CANNOT mix parts between the two, otherwise you will eventually have a bad vibration and a very short engine life! ( BOOM, BOOM, POW!! ) Either type of rotating assembly, I would DEFINITELY spend the extra cash re-balancing it!! Free horsepower, way smoother operation and extended engine life.



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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: jeff500] #1410719
03/31/13 11:15 AM
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Quote:

Thanks everyone for all the good info.i wasnt sure what the compression was on a stock 400 but was hopeing that useing the 915s and some mill work that i could get real closr to 10-1 comp.i knew that the comp was low but did not realize that it was that low......yes its just going to b a half ass street motor for my 17 year old son.i had some parts laying around so i thought instead of having the 400 crank polished,i would polish a 383 crank and b somewhat better. Lol




If you use the 915's, zero deck/flat top piston combo, choose a cam that will pump up cylinder pressure to "create" a ratio closer to 10 to 1 cr (effective). Definitely need to play with the ignition timing for MORE SNAP!!



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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: Performance Only] #1410720
03/31/13 03:16 PM
03/31/13 03:16 PM
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Quote:

John, 71 was the last year for the 383 and as you know, 72 was the first year for the 400. It stands to reason they wanted to deplete the old 383 cranks. I think we all know they'll physically interchange dimensionally. That does not mean that the component weights were the same. At the factory all they had to do was drill the counterweights differently.




I understand that but the crankshaft was individually balanced to a set bobweight, if the 400 bobweight was that much different than the 383 they would have given the crank a different part number and a different balance but they didn't...so a parts room 2268114 crank would have been supplied as a direct replacement for either the 383 or the 400.



Quote:

The pistons are not close enough in weight to just swap cranks from a 383 to a 400 and not rebalance it.






Again, depends on how much imbalance is considered "too much"....evidently the factory thought it wasn't enough to warrant a different part number.


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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: John_Kunkel] #1410721
03/31/13 03:58 PM
03/31/13 03:58 PM
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If it were mine I would check the bearings, (replace only if needed) check the bores for total wear, and if at all possible run it as is and put a good timing chain on a small hydraulic like the old 268H Comp cam, and have fun. You can cut the heads maybe .060 and use a steel shim .020 gasket, which should get compression up to the mid 8 range, which is why the short cam will work the best IMHO. With a cam that small, bowl work is all that is needed, along with a good competition valve job to make use of what you have to work with.

Last edited by gregsdart; 03/31/13 04:02 PM.

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Re: 383vs400 crankshaft [Re: John_Kunkel] #1410722
03/31/13 04:11 PM
03/31/13 04:11 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

John, 71 was the last year for the 383 and as you know, 72 was the first year for the 400. It stands to reason they wanted to deplete the old 383 cranks. I think we all know they'll physically interchange dimensionally. That does not mean that the component weights were the same. At the factory all they had to do was drill the counterweights differently.




I understand that but the crankshaft was individually balanced to a set bobweight, if the 400 bobweight was that much different than the 383 they would have given the crank a different part number and a different balance but they didn't...so a parts room 2268114 crank would have been supplied as a direct replacement for either the 383 or the 400.



Quote:

The pistons are not close enough in weight to just swap cranks from a 383 to a 400 and not rebalance it.






Again, depends on how much imbalance is considered "too much"....evidently the factory thought it wasn't enough to warrant a different part number.




A crankshaft bought over the counter did not have balance holes drilled in it. Aside from that, how many forged crank 400's were ever built? I've never seen one.


machine shop owner and engine builder
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