Thats cool, I knew I had to do the hump install maybe ad some to other side.
Thanks for the ideas everyone. I will get right on that measuring.

Hey Darren, here is a copy of an E-mail I sent to Gene with my measurements.
How does it compare to what you have?

"Hello Gene, Jackson here from Moparts.
I have some measurements here for you.
With the pedal up to the rubber stop I have 4.25" from the end of the threads on the heim joint and to the end of the threads on the hydraulic masters threads.
The adjustment rod that you have supplied is 4.25", so I think that a threaded push rod of 5.5 would do the trick.
That will give me a travel of 1.25" of the push rod, from the stop to the pedal on the floor.
How does this sound to you?
I will post this as a reply on the Moparts thread 1971 Challenger Conversion from Auto to Manual. Just in case Ludington1 needs to see it to help him."

I see what you are saying about the brake light switch hitting the heim joint, but I would like to keep my push rod as straight as possible.
So I think I will have to figure something out with my brake light switch.
Hey Dayclona! Any ideas? Since you are such a pro at this install.
I would hate to spend time reinventing the wheel.

Like Mike said, you will need to install the hump. However, if you return the car back to automatic, just change the top plate, and run a shifter cable instead of the mechanical linkage.

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Gene,...after he installs his Keisler TKO, and hits the streets,......he'll be saying "automatic"?....whats that?

I see what you are saying about the brake light switch hitting the heim joint, but I would like to keep my push rod as straight as possible.
So I think I will have to figure something out with my brake light switch.
Hey Dayclona! Any ideas? Since you are such a pro at this install.
I would hate to spend time reinventing the wheel.

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Jackson,.....usually when you use the hydualic pushrod assy, the brake switch rubs or hits the heim joint,.....depending on the body type, pedals used.....you can do some of the following, but keeping the geometry of the pedal and pushrod correct is paramont, don't alter it for the sake of switch clearance



The shoulder bolt(that pins the heim joint on the pedal) supplied by Keisler is sometimes too long, and the Allen head hits the switch,or allows the heim joint to be clearance too far away from the pedal just go to a hardware/machine supply store and get a shoulder bolt that has less length,......sometimes the plastic switch body is larger than the switch bracket, again most auto parts stores will have a selection of factory replacement switches, purchase a narrow bodied one, your car won't know or care if its a Ford or Chevy or whatever switch.....and sometimes you just have to think out an alternative method on modifing the brake switch to acompany the clearance need between the pedals,....but I usually find the first two methods I mentioned to be effective...hope that helps

Cool, thanks for the direction.
I am on my way....

Thanks guys for the input... I think I can cut that aluminum space in half and it will get the clutch rod lined up a little better, it is pretty close as-is.

Let's see your Challenger pics when you have a chance, I have a 71 R/T in the garage that is a long way from being on the street but if I keep it I will be putting some kind of OD manual trans in there. Should be a little easier as it is a factory 4-speed.

Darren

Here it is with the engine pulled and being pushed into my shop.
All original paint.