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brake issue #1401485
03/12/13 08:54 PM
03/12/13 08:54 PM
Joined: May 2004
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robin hood country
deaks Offline OP
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I have just fitted new shoes and one wheel cylinder on the front of my 67 Coronet, i've had the rears to peces as well, replacing one of the rear wheel cylinders. I wire brushed the drums and cleaned them thoroughly with brake cleaner, adjusted and bled them. There is no power assist on the brakes. Anyway, i drove it today and they are absolutely rubbish. I think i'd slow down quicker if i put a stick in the wheel. If someone pulled out on me, i'd never pull up.
Should i have roughed the shoes up a little before fitting them ?
Mick


69 Dart GTS 440 mopar .590 cam, Edelbrock heads, 3200#
best et 6.45, 106.78, 10.14, 132.88 mph, 1.47 60ft
best 60ft 1.36
Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401486
03/12/13 09:24 PM
03/12/13 09:24 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Should i have roughed the shoes up a little before fitting them ?


No but more details on what's going on, Are the shoes spooned up tight (how much pedal travel)? do they pump up briefly with quick/fast pumps? Were they Ok before being rebuilt other than being worn out (what were the symptoms?)


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Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401487
03/12/13 09:25 PM
03/12/13 09:25 PM
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WV
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JohnH Offline
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either you don't have them adjusted right or the booster is not working.. when you adjust the front brakes you should only be able to spin the tire as hard as you can, one and a half to two turns,, same for the rear, but you will have to just feel some drag on the rears.. remember 80% of you stopping power is from the front brakes...

Re: brake issue [Re: JohnH] #1401488
03/12/13 09:33 PM
03/12/13 09:33 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

or the booster is not working..


Yeah I missed that part & sounds like the booster is non op (booster check valve? pushrod clearance?)


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Re: brake issue [Re: RapidRobert] #1401489
03/13/13 05:24 AM
03/13/13 05:24 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,210
robin hood country
deaks Offline OP
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These aren't power brakes they're manual.
I adjusted them untill they were tight, then backed them off a little.
The front shoes were worn out, the backs had loads of meat on them.
Mick


69 Dart GTS 440 mopar .590 cam, Edelbrock heads, 3200#
best et 6.45, 106.78, 10.14, 132.88 mph, 1.47 60ft
best 60ft 1.36
Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401490
03/13/13 12:14 PM
03/13/13 12:14 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Oh OK manual. Nothing in your descrip is apparent. If there ain't excessive pedal travel then the shoes are adjusted tight enough & if they dont pump up then it's not air. The M/C was not replaced. I'd do another visual on all 4 corners & see if anything is apparent or jack up the fronts & spin the wheels by hand & have a helper work the pedal then jack up the rear axle & idle it in gear/work the pedal & see what you see. The symptoms sound like inadequate psi from a pinched line/hose if the travel/air ain't the culprit but I'm not seeing how that could have happened. Holler how it goes


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401491
03/13/13 12:28 PM
03/13/13 12:28 PM
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Scuff the drum braking surface with medium/fine grit sandpaper to remove the glaze. New shoes need something to "bite" into to seat them in.

Re: brake issue [Re: RapidRobert] #1401492
03/13/13 02:18 PM
03/13/13 02:18 PM
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Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline
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Quote:

No but more details on what's going on, Are the shoes spooned up tight (how much pedal travel)? do they pump up briefly with quick/fast pumps? Were they Ok before being rebuilt other than being worn out (what were the symptoms?)




Is the pedal getting firm on application? Does it firm up at the proper rate? Does the pedal get firm at the typical location? Hard to diagnose without some more info. With new shoes, properly adjusted, new wheel cylinders, the only thing left I can think of of soft/bad front (or both front/rear) hose(s). Do the rears lock up first on hard pedal pressure, or at all?

Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401493
03/13/13 02:44 PM
03/13/13 02:44 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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I don't remember the term for having the new brake shoes tapered on the ends so all of the shoe will conatct all of the drum when first installed, sorry. Pull the rear drums and see what the contact pattern looks like, maybe that is your problem now, not all of the shoe is contacting the drums yet I've had that problem before trying to save money The word is "Arc" to the drum Arcing would bevel (a very small amount) the top and bottom of the lining a small amount, maybe a inch or two on each end a IHTHs We had a machine for that back in the day when I worked in a Gas Station, Service Stations that sold gasoline, turn the drums on one machine and then arc the new shoes on the other machine, inhale all that good brake dust from both operations

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/13/13 02:51 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: brake issue [Re: MoparMarq] #1401494
03/13/13 03:08 PM
03/13/13 03:08 PM
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Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick Offline
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Downtown Roebuck Ont
I seem to recall that there is a leading and trailing shoe. If you install them backwards they will perform badly. I can't remember how to tell them apart if they aren't marked, but I would check this first.

Kevin

Re: brake issue [Re: Twostick] #1401495
03/13/13 03:30 PM
03/13/13 03:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline
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Quote:

I seem to recall that there is a leading and trailing shoe. If you install them backwards they will perform badly. I can't remember how to tell them apart if they aren't marked, but I would check this first.

Kevin




Front shoe of set at a particular wheel has the shorter of the two linings; longer lining is on the rear shoe of the pair. Worth checking...

Re: brake issue [Re: MoparMarq] #1401496
03/13/13 04:12 PM
03/13/13 04:12 PM
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Posts: 3,210
robin hood country
deaks Offline OP
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Ah, right, i didn't know that. Would that make a lot of difference.
Thanks Mick


69 Dart GTS 440 mopar .590 cam, Edelbrock heads, 3200#
best et 6.45, 106.78, 10.14, 132.88 mph, 1.47 60ft
best 60ft 1.36
Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401497
03/13/13 04:43 PM
03/13/13 04:43 PM
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Grand Prairie,Texas
stumpy Offline
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Just remember brake shoes are a mullet haircut. Short in front long in back.

Re: brake issue [Re: stumpy] #1401498
03/13/13 04:51 PM
03/13/13 04:51 PM
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Paul_Fancsali Offline
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Frankly having driven those cars new the drum brakes just plain suck. Do a disc conversion and save your life or that of any other car around you. By the way only buy new brakes if you have to keep using the drum brakes the relined are absolute junk

Did you happen to change the size of master cly? That will make a big difference in pedal pressure.
If the brakes are 10 X 2.5 in front read the above and save your time

Re: brake issue [Re: Cab_Burge] #1401499
03/13/13 04:55 PM
03/13/13 04:55 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844
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nomore65BelvJim Offline
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Quote:

I don't remember the term for having the new brake shoes tapered on the ends so all of the shoe will conatct all of the drum when first installed, sorry.




Re-arching.
The ends are left alone. The center of the arch is reduced and its tapered to nothing removed on the ends to make them match the larger diameter of the turned drum.
Any shop that relines shoes should have the equipment to re-arch.

Re: brake issue [Re: Paul_Fancsali] #1401500
03/13/13 07:45 PM
03/13/13 07:45 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,210
robin hood country
deaks Offline OP
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Quote:

Frankly having driven those cars new the drum brakes just plain suck. Do a disc conversion and save your life or that of any other car around you. By the way only buy new brakes if you have to keep using the drum brakes the relined are absolute junk

Did you happen to change the size of master cly? That will make a big difference in pedal pressure.
If the brakes are 10 X 2.5 in front read the above and save your time




Thanks for some good answers.
First of all, the shoes were the wrong way round on the drivers side and were doing almost nothing, compared to the pass side. Also a little more adjustment is needed on both sides.
Paul
I'd rather spend money trying to get my Dart into the 9's to be honest.
Mick
Mick


69 Dart GTS 440 mopar .590 cam, Edelbrock heads, 3200#
best et 6.45, 106.78, 10.14, 132.88 mph, 1.47 60ft
best 60ft 1.36
Re: brake issue [Re: stumpy] #1401501
03/13/13 08:36 PM
03/13/13 08:36 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,210
robin hood country
deaks Offline OP
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Quote:

Just remember brake shoes are a mullet haircut. Short in front long in back.




HaHaHa.. Mine's more like a golf course. A fairway back.
Mick


69 Dart GTS 440 mopar .590 cam, Edelbrock heads, 3200#
best et 6.45, 106.78, 10.14, 132.88 mph, 1.47 60ft
best 60ft 1.36
Re: brake issue [Re: deaks] #1401502
03/13/13 08:48 PM
03/13/13 08:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Frankly having driven those cars new the drum brakes just plain suck. Do a disc conversion and save your life or that of any other car around you. By the way only buy new brakes if you have to keep using the drum brakes the relined are absolute junk

Did you happen to change the size of master cly? That will make a big difference in pedal pressure.
If the brakes are 10 X 2.5 in front read the above and save your time




Thanks for some good answers.
First of all, the shoes were the wrong way round on the drivers side and were doing almost nothing, compared to the pass side. Also a little more adjustment is needed on both sides.
Paul
I'd rather spend money trying to get my Dart into the 9's to be honest.
Mick
Mick




You want to run 9s with drum brakes??







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