I picked up an engine run stand and want to make sure I have the parts for my 383 to get it broke in on the stand. The stand is complete so I need nothing for it. The 383 is complete but here is the question. I bought an old aluminum truck bellhousing to use. I understand it will work for the stand and I've got a 727 for the car. I have the starter as well. Now, do I just need a flywheel to make this go or are there some other pieces? All I'm looking for is what to use on the transmission end.

Thanks in advance.

Yes you will need a flywheel.

Thanks!! Will any big block flywheel work?

I use a 10 1/2" fly wheel works on small or
big block.

Thanks GORT! That should be easy enough to find. Time to hit the salvage yard!!

Are all the flywheels neutrally balanced?

hold on...I'm pretty sure all truck big block bell's were cast iron and 11"...are you sure you have a big block housing??

When I bought it another guy was arguing with the seller about using them (he had a couple) in cars. The seller, an older guy, said he had used them more times than not and they work fine. It is for sure aluminum, it's very lite. I'll have to get the part number when I get home tomorrow.

You won't be able to seat the rings without load on the engine.

HMMMMMM... First I've heard of this. I know people who build engines and do break-in on engine stands all the time. Not arguing with you just stating a fact. Guess I'll do some more homework and maybe others will chime in.

Thanks!!

The machine shop next to me breaks all his motors in on an engine test stand.

A basic stand is fine for finding leaks,braking in cams,setting basline timing and jetting settings. I know that many think modern rings with quality bore finish seat instantly,but I still like to put a load on them from the start and the reason I don't have a run in stand. If your confident you won't have leaks,the cam won't go flat and timing and jetting aren't a problem then it's use becomes less needed. If your building engines to sell to customers then it makes some sense to confirm all is clean when you deliver the engine.

read this before you make your decision. "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com

I read that sometime ago. It sounds similar to my typical breakin ,a run in stand doesn't offer what I think is an important feature but others may need some of the uses I mentioned above.

Mkes sense. So, do you just take the chance that a came lobe could wipe and there are leaks? Am I to believe that there is a low risk of those things happening? I'm new at this and don't have lots of $$$ to throw at a rebuilt engine to fix whatever may have been damaged. with the article in mind does it hurt the engine to do the 20 minute run in then do the "hard" breakin??

Thanks

Well everyones experience level is different and I don't have leaks and have been very luck with cams as well and if it was on a stand I'd still have to remove it and fix it,so it gets broken in in car style and if there ever is a leak I'll be pulling it.LOL I run it 15 or so minutes keeping the rpms between 1500-3000rpm ,while checking/setting the timing ,then I simply slide inside put it in gear and bring the engine up against the converter several seconds at a time. After 30-40 minutes I remove the filter,cut it open and have a look,when satified that all is well I simply install a new filter and take it for a few passes at the track or my favorite out of the way test course. Change the oil and filter after a couple of races(10-20 passes) and enjoy.