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Would it be a good idea to put lock tight on connecting
rod nuts/bolts.

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I use 30wt non synthetic eng oil on rod bolts then blow em off with shop air. After torquing I wouldn't have a problem with adding some green loctite to the threads on the end which the "green" is designed to wick down into threads with them assembled tho with them already coated with a thin film of eng oil the loctite might not bond properly but a person could clean the end threads with a shot of brake kleen or similar first & it'd be worth a try & cheap & I'd sleep better at night . I've only has a con rod bolt come loose once & that was on a DD /6

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Never in a hundred years would I even think of doing that ROBERT why would you want to take a chance of those chemicals getting into the oil after warming the motor up The factory uses oil and has for a lot of years, the nut and bolt are designed to have a set amount of clamping force with the oil set at the torque recommendned, not any other lubricants or chemicals

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I use 30wt non synthetic eng oil on rod bolts then blow em off with shop air. After torquing I wouldn't have a problem with adding some green loctite to the threads on the end which the "green" is designed to wick down into threads with them assembled tho with them already coated with a thin film of eng oil the loctite might not bond properly but a person could clean the end threads with a shot of brake kleen or similar first & it'd be worth a try & cheap & I'd sleep better at night . I've only has a con rod bolt come loose once & that was on a DD /6

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Are you kidding us? I can't believe you even posted this?

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arp makes a very good rod bolt lube. you need to understand that the rod bolt is tightened to yeild a stretch value. this places a clamping load on the bolt. if the bolts are properly installed [not binding at the shank]they should torque to specs.the use of lube greatly effects the actual load applied. a bolt can bind and yeild a false torque spec,then loosen up with use. i would never use lock tite....

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I use 30wt non synthetic eng oil on rod bolts then blow em off with shop air. After torquing I wouldn't have a problem with adding some green loctite to the threads on the end which the "green" is designed to wick down into threads with them assembled tho with them already coated with a thin film of eng oil the loctite might not bond properly but a person could clean the end threads with a shot of brake kleen or similar first & it'd be worth a try & cheap & I'd sleep better at night . I've only has a con rod bolt come loose once & that was on a DD /6

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Are you kidding us? I can't believe you even posted this?

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I can ...

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arp makes a very good rod bolt lube. you need to understand that the rod bolt is tightened to yeild a stretch value. this places a clamping load on the bolt. if the bolts are properly installed [not binding at the shank]they should torque to specs.the use of lube greatly effects the actual load applied. a bolt can bind and yeild a false torque spec,then loosen up with use. i would never use lock tite....

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ARP lube requires a different torque spec than using oil , the factory manual torque specs are using oil .

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DUH! I SAID A BOLT IS TIGHTENED TO YEILD A STRETCH VALUE- NOT TORQUE. please re-read post. .. yea i know,they dont make good quaker state like the old days,that will throw the old manuals specs off a mile rite there.. while you are at it,if you want to ensure the rod bolts are the best they can be,use arp brand bolts. they will require about 50 lbs torque to yeild proper stretch as compared to the stock 45 lbs... Also, rod bolts stretch with each use-

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arp makes a very good rod bolt lube. you need to understand that the rod bolt is tightened to yeild a stretch value. this places a clamping load on the bolt. if the bolts are properly installed [not binding at the shank]they should torque to specs.the use of lube greatly effects the actual load applied. a bolt can bind and yeild a false torque spec,then loosen up with use. i would never use lock tite....

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ARP lube requires a different torque spec than using oil , the factory manual torque specs are using oil .

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DUH! I SAID A BOLT IS TIGHTENED TO YEILD A STRETCH VALUE- NOT TORQUE. please re-read post. .. yea i know,they dont make good quaker state like the old days,that will throw the old manuals specs off a mile rite there.. while you are at it,if you want to ensure the rod bolts are the best they can be,use arp brand bolts. they will require about 50 lbs torque to yeild proper stretch as compared to the stock 45 lbs... Also, rod bolts stretch with each use-

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Oh boy another narcissistic [censored] with internet access ... wonderful ...

ARP bolt lube is for ARP bolts, ARP is the only maker I know of that gives a spec for bolt stretch. You are ASSuMEing that everyone uses ARP bolts and owns a bolt stretch gauge , I DON'T assume that which is why I was pointing it out to those that are just reading along.

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arp makes a very good rod bolt lube. you need to understand that the rod bolt is tightened to yeild a stretch value. this places a clamping load on the bolt. if the bolts are properly installed [not binding at the shank]they should torque to specs.the use of lube greatly effects the actual load applied. a bolt can bind and yeild a false torque spec,then loosen up with use. i would never use lock tite....

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ARP lube requires a different torque spec than using oil , the factory manual torque specs are using oil .

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DUH! I SAID A BOLT IS TIGHTENED TO YEILD A STRETCH VALUE- NOT TORQUE. please re-read post. .. yea i know,they dont make good quaker state like the old days,that will throw the old manuals specs off a mile rite there.. while you are at it,if you want to ensure the rod bolts are the best they can be,use arp brand bolts. they will require about 50 lbs torque to yeild proper stretch as compared to the stock 45 lbs... Also, rod bolts stretch with each use-

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Oh boy another narcissistic [censored] with internet access ... wonderful ...

ARP bolt lube is for ARP bolts, ARP is the only maker I know of that gives a spec for bolt stretch. You are ASSuMEing that everyone uses ARP bolts and owns a bolt stretch gauge , DON'T ...

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I've used those old O.E.M. bolts over and over for 40+years and have yet have the first one come loose !!

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arp makes a very good rod bolt lube. you need to understand that the rod bolt is tightened to yeild a stretch value. this places a clamping load on the bolt. if the bolts are properly installed [not binding at the shank]they should torque to specs.the use of lube greatly effects the actual load applied. a bolt can bind and yeild a false torque spec,then loosen up with use. i would never use lock tite....

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ARP lube requires a different torque spec than using oil , the factory manual torque specs are using oil .

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DUH! I SAID A BOLT IS TIGHTENED TO YEILD A STRETCH VALUE- NOT TORQUE. please re-read post. .. yea i know,they dont make good quaker state like the old days,that will throw the old manuals specs off a mile rite there.. while you are at it,if you want to ensure the rod bolts are the best they can be,use arp brand bolts. they will require about 50 lbs torque to yeild proper stretch as compared to the stock 45 lbs... Also, rod bolts stretch with each use-

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Oh boy another narcissistic [censored] with internet access ... wonderful ...

ARP bolt lube is for ARP bolts, ARP is the only maker I know of that gives a spec for bolt stretch. You are ASSuMEing that everyone uses ARP bolts and owns a bolt stretch gauge ---[ your words not mine]-- I DON'T assume that which is why I was pointing it out to those that are just reading along. --[ you assume the OP. was using a stock bolt then. he never said that . what if he had arp bolts and you said use oil? just so those reading along dont use the wrong oil on their arp bolts!] --- [/te] ARP will work on the stock bolts just fine. the torque value will change but not the stretch. all rod bolts stretch. no assumption. the factory issued torque spec. is a value that will usually give the needed stretch to that bolt. just to be clear when i say all rod bolts stretch, while torqued to specs .

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