Pass side went OK, noticed got wheel speed sensor cable/lead real tight getting old strut out. Didn't notice any breaks or connector loose.

Driver side going good, then strut clevis bolt stuck (rust) in clevis bushing inner shell. It got shots of PB for 2hrs no help. Shell only spins about 1/4". Doesn't turn in rubber yet. I have a C frame press from a OTC ball joint tool kit, that almost lines up about 99%, but not straight. No help to press it out.

Buttoned back up to find strategy for bolt. Now have Electric Brakes and 4WD Need Service. I didn't think about manualy checking for codes. My AutoTap's no help. Couldn't find any connectors loose to PDC. Could the one speed sensor cable cause this?

Also need ideas on the clevis bolt. If I have to cut off the clevis, dig out the bushing, could I press in a new one with LCA still on vehicle?

Thanks,
Not good for a Sunday,

Jim.

Had some corrosion issues like that before.Had to use a saws all to cut bolt and replace the bushing.It will probably never come out.

I've run into the same problem on those as well as the Rams. The lower bolt for the strut rusts solid inside the bushing. I have had some success with using a OTC ball joint/u-joint press to get them out. The opening in the press is just big enough for the bolt head to pass though. It takes some time pressing on it and then tighten up for it to work free. I will come out hard the whole way.
If that doesnt work your going to have to change the bushing. They're avalible form NAPA.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCP2673738_0336013545
You should be able to change the bushing on the jeep with your press.
As for the ABS/TRAC light you probibly damaged on of the wheel speed sensors.

Thanks Todd I believe I have that very same press. It just doesn't quite line up straight on center, by about 3/8". Or maybe mine is one size smaller than yours. Ideas are along lines I was thinking. If my press won't get it in, how about a draw through bolt and washers? Removal would be drill the rubber then beat out the outer shell? More?

If you can hack off the bolt between the bushing and the mount then press out the bushing with your press. Thats if you have cups that will fit the press and around the bushing.

I'm guessing you have a bigger press than mine. Mine would not be long enough to accomodate the cup adapter and cup too. I'll check the OTC tool number this evening.

For pushing bolts out I use the OTC one. For bushings I use the Chrysler one it's alot bigger.
I guess thats one advantage working at a dealer.
Stop by your local dealer and see if they would let you borrow it and the cups/drivers. We used to lend out tools until about a year ago. Got tired of not getting them back in a timely manner and misuse.

I wish you worked at our dealership. Wife didn't want to wait 'till weekend for me to tackle again. Took it to her
habit dealership. They must have had difficulty too. Because they are replacing the LCA, and I guess the clevis too. I see Chrysler doesn't service the bushing, so they said OK. They are getting LCA from CarQuest so save a few bucks.
I found the bushing hard to locate, but got this lead on jeepforums.com. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCP2673738_0336013545
Where do you get yours?
thanks,Jim

I've done them both ways replacing the just the bushing or the whole control arm. Depends on what's quickest available. And what the customer wants to pay for.
We get most of aftermarket parts from Napa .

When the lower bolt wont come out I unbolt the sway link, upper ball joint and hub nut. leave a nut on top mount and pivot lower arm down.
The lower bracket usually comes off the shock pretty easily. Lower arm pivots enough to get strut out of bracket.

Gary.

I just did a set today and did that same thing.
Neither lower bolt would come out
I wish the Rams had the same setup.

W T F ??? STRUTS ON A Grand Cherokee? What were they thinking???? I just replaced all 4 SHOCKS on my XJ today.... I havent had the displeasure of seeing the setup you talk about, yet.