Maybe some nice tight-fitting hose caps over the bowl vents when not driving it? Might last a little longer.....

Joe

Go to any pharmacy, I go to Target, and get a FREE kids liquid medicine syringe. Use them all the time to prime empty carbs so I don't kill a battery or starter.

Squirt down the vent tube and flip throttle lever until squirter is active. Fill with 2-3 syringes and go.

Installing a choke, manual or automatic, will make the whole process less aggravating. it won't solve the evaporation issue, but it will get the fuel pulled up quicker.

I always fill a Holley thru the vent after the car sits. I don't like spinning a motor over with no oil pressure while the mech pump slowly fills the bowls.

Spinning the motor builds oil pressure.

I used to have the same starting problems when I used a 750 DP Holley on my 360. It was a fine line in giving it enough fuel to start without flooding it. My cure was to buy a QuickFuel Hotrod series carb. It is a 680 c.f.m. It comes with a electric choke,(which I have never hooked up). It has vacuum operated secondaries, which make it much harder to flood. It has worked well for me.

My motor turns over about 4 times and I have oil pressure. I don't think there is much wear there. Besides that it doesn't take a lot of pressure to lube a non running engine turning over at very low RPM.

I have a bunch of vehicles that are not driven regularly. Some have Holley (or QF), some have carters, and one has an Edelbrock. I never have much trouble starting any of them if there is fuel in the bowls. There are so many elements that could be giving you trouble it is hard to guess what it could be. If you want to call me the next time you have trouble shoot me a PM for my cell number.

So after wading through the thread here's what came out...
It's a holley carb with no choke that sits for weeks at a time and does'nt fire right up.. ...And this would be normal under most conditions..

Add some fresh fuel down the vent tube as others have stated and illustrated...I have a very small funnel that fits right in there and makes the job easy pouring from a small cup or can..

And now with no choke you need to pump the gas while you crank and let it fire...If it stumbles pump the gas a little to keep it going until the engine RPMs come up and will run on it's own...And that means babysitting it for a while without a high idle circuit...
I'm not a fan of adding an electric fuel pump{or a carb with no choke for that matter} for a guy who is'nt on top of all the carb troubles that come from long periods of sitting..You could easily turn the carb into an olympic torch if something is leaking or sticking with the electric pump pushing fuel...
And on that note no matter what brand or how many carbs on the engine you need to watch the carb for any signs of leaking which means leaving the air cleaner off until it's up and running...I never just jump in a vehicle after a long slumber and start cranking without checking and watching the carb{s} as it cranks...All it takes is a dried up gasket,stuck float etc...And you've got big trouble...Good Luck...

About 90% of engine wear happens while starting.

Kevin

I doubt that very much. At least after 50 years as a mechanic I've never found that to be true. The wear doesn't happen while cranking it happens after it starts until it warms up.

Adding fuel by hand or electric is a band aid STOP the bowls from emptying by blocking the exhaust heat passage under the carb. Problem solved.

Blocking the heat riser in no way will stop this kind of problem. You can delay the effects by some amount (who knows how long) by blocking the riser and using an insulator under the carb. Still going to be dry after "x" days.

Diesels are entirely differnt animal because of very high compresion while cranking compared to a gas motor. Apples to oranges. In the OP's case the fact that there is no gas to wash the oil from the cylinder walls ring damage from happening.There is only a minute coating of oil because the bottom of the three rings the oil wiper ring scrapes the oil off the cylinders.