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I would say more important than trying to lube the sealed bearings.. is to keep it clean the rubber and rocks will build up .. one of the things that I like the most about this set up is less side to side movement..john calvert will tell you for a trans brake set up run a bunch of shock so you wont see much movement at the slider. my set up will move less than 1/2 inch on a pass

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I would say more important than trying to lube the sealed bearings.. is to keep it clean the rubber and rocks will build up .. one of the things that I like the most about this set up is less side to side movement..john calvert will tell you for a trans brake set up run a bunch of shock so you wont see much movement at the slider. my set up will move less than 1/2 inch on a pass

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Now you guys got me thinking about another mod to hopefully go even quicker.......... I can weld those in myself w/the help of my room mate..........

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This is a good and interesting thread. Im planing on going the Cal-Tracks setup route.

Question: I want to keep the more or less standard ride hight of my car. When using sliders, do you buy the "standard" or +1 arch leafspring???

Thanks!i I thank +1 will be safe keep in mined john calvert said lowering block are ok with this set up. my car seems to 60ft better with a 1" lowering block.. maybe more leverage

/Tom

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Question for anyone:

Do you install them so the slider is in the middle of its travel at rest/ ride height or slightly one way or another? Pictures would be nice.


EDIT: found this http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml

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I tried to set my sliders so that at rest with all the weight on the car the rear eye is about 2/3rd's of the way back...Reasoning for this is because the spring eye will travel forwards alot more then it will travel backwards, not to mention when I checked the travel it only made sense to put the eye there otherwise it would have bottomed out on the front with any real sort of spring seperation

As for the slider angle on Afco's tech pages, I was told that is more for stock car/roundy round stuff, and that for drag racing its not really nescessary

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Caltrac mono-leafs and leaf spring
sliders on my 71 Demon.
Not done building the car yet.

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See how far the vertical walls hang over the frame
rail... thats why I added metal to both sides(the
vertical walls are the load carrying points) and I
felt it would be easy to have the walls bow upward
being they are hanging in space.... JMO

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Caltrac mono-leafs and leaf spring
sliders on my 71 Demon.
Not done building the car yet.

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See how far the vertical walls hang over the frame
rail... thats why I added metal to both sides(the
vertical walls are the load carrying points) and I
felt it would be easy to have the walls bow upward
being they are hanging in space.... JMO

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Wouldn't it make sense to put some bracing there back to the frame? Just weld it from the corner up.

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Here is post I had a while back that went over a lot of your questions.
In this pic with the susupesion hanging all the way down I have 3/4" until they bottom out on the forward side. At ride height their an inch past center.


https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/favl...amp;postmarker=

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