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Maybe someone knows how to make these type of rockers work under a small block stroker and a 557 or 590 lift purple shaft cam. Rpm range around 6800-7200. Hp maybe like 450 hp.

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Econo W2 and a stroker, yor really going to have to mess that combination up to have it only make 450 HP using a Mopar cam is a good start to acheive that goal

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Cab, Brock lives app one hour from me and I TRIED to point him in a direction that he could build a low maintenance engine on a budget that would run 10's. Pump gas, 6400-6500 rpm, 520-550 lift solid cam, his W2 heads and a good intake (I like the W2 Victor). Hopefully his chassis works well enough and a 5200-5500 convertor. In his 2800# car that combo should go 10.20's-10.50's

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I had to edit this to add that I also recommended using a H beem connecting rod instead of wasting money reconditioning stock rods.

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If he changes rods will he not need a re-balance??? Good rod bolts and a re-size will work at that RPM.........
What pistons?? how heavy are they??

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I will NEVER recommend someone that is building a 10 second engine to use stock reconditioned rods. Why would you ever want to. Put a good rod in it an put the money that you would have spent on a junk set of rods toward the cost. That way the hardest part of the build is done. You can always port or change out the heads at a later date and not worry about the rods being able to take the added HP.

And a race build running 10's should be balanced by a machine shop, not a factory balance job.

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Maybe someone knows how to make these type of rockers work under a small block stroker and a 557 or 590 lift purple shaft cam. Rpm range around 6800-7200. Hp maybe like 450 hp.

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Econo W2 and a stroker, yor really going to have to mess that combination up to have it only make 450 HP using a Mopar cam is a good start to acheive that goal

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Cab, Brock lives app one hour from me and I TRIED to point him in a direction that he could build a low maintenance engine on a budget that would run 10's. Pump gas, 6400-6500 rpm, 520-550 lift solid cam, his W2 heads and a good intake (I like the W2 Victor). Hopefully his chassis works well enough and a 5200-5500 convertor. In his 2800# car that combo should go 10.20's-10.50's

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I had to edit this to add that I also recommended using a H beem connecting rod instead of wasting money reconditioning stock rods.

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If he changes rods will he not need a re-balance??? Good rod bolts and a re-size will work at that RPM.........
What pistons?? how heavy are they??

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I will NEVER recommend someone that is building a 10 second engine to use stock reconditioned rods. Why would you ever want to. Put a good rod in it an put the money that you would have spent on a junk set of rods toward the cost. That way the hardest part of the build is done. You can always port or change out the heads at a later date and not worry about the rods being able to take the added HP.

And a race build running 10's should be balanced by a machine shop, not a factory balance job.

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If those are your heads...better take a good look at them... cause it looks like the shafts go through stands...they are not bolted to a pedestal...NOT Econo heads...

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If those are your heads...better take a good look at them... cause it looks like the shafts go through stands...they are not bolted to a pedestal...NOT Econo heads...

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I thought i saw bolt on stands, which means they're a long valve race head with open chambers.

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If those are your heads...better take a good look at them... cause it looks like the shafts go through stands...they are not bolted to a pedestal...NOT Econo heads...

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I thought i saw bolt on stands, which means they're a long valve race head with open chambers.

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Yeah those are the race heads..... NOT the econo's
the one set I have is the econo long valve but another
set is the standard econo... which to my understanding
has a different pedestal height and location

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If those are your heads...better take a good look at them... cause it looks like the shafts go through stands...they are not bolted to a pedestal...NOT Econo heads...

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I thought i saw bolt on stands, which means they're a long valve race head with open chambers.

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Yeah those are the race heads..... NOT the econo's
the one set I have is the econo long valve but another
set is the standard econo... which to my understanding
has a different pedestal height and location

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Yes I agree it should not have the factory balance........ Stock rods in that combo are absolutely not an issue, but if you are going to balance and re-size the factory rods... the Chinese H beams are not much more money in the big picture........... I'm not convinced the Chinese rods are any better than a factory rod.........

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I'll take a H-beam over the factory rod any day... I
put a new set of Viper rods(they are shot penned and
magnafluxed before they go into the viper engines)
in a 340...I tore one in half on my small block at
7500 rpm... I havent broke any Eagle H-beams yet at
a much higher rpm(they are the older Eagles which
to me were better quality.. but I cant say for fact)

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That's interesting ......where did the rod break??? Did you upgrade the rod bolts?? I thought all factory rods were shot peened??

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Yes I agree it should not have the factory balance........ Stock rods in that combo are absolutely not an issue, but if you are going to balance and re-size the factory rods... the Chinese H beams are not much more money in the big picture........... I'm not convinced the Chinese rods are any better than a factory rod.........

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I'll take a H-beam over the factory rod any day... I
put a new set of Viper rods(they are shot penned and
magnafluxed before they go into the viper engines)
in a 340...I tore one in half on my small block at
7500 rpm... I havent broke any Eagle H-beams yet at
a much higher rpm(they are the older Eagles which
to me were better quality.. but I cant say for fact)

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That's interesting ......where did the rod break??? Did you upgrade the rod bolts?? I thought all factory rods were shot peened??

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Good bolts.. no, not all factory rods are shot penned
and my rod was still bolted to the crank but the
other end and chunks of the piston came out of the
block... it trashed everything in that engine
EDIT
tore it in half right in the middle

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Yes I agree it should not have the factory balance........ Stock rods in that combo are absolutely not an issue, but if you are going to balance and re-size the factory rods... the Chinese H beams are not much more money in the big picture........... I'm not convinced the Chinese rods are any better than a factory rod.........

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I'll take a H-beam over the factory rod any day... I
put a new set of Viper rods(they are shot penned and
magnafluxed before they go into the viper engines)
in a 340...I tore one in half on my small block at
7500 rpm... I havent broke any Eagle H-beams yet at
a much higher rpm(they are the older Eagles which
to me were better quality.. but I cant say for fact)

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That's interesting ......where did the rod break??? Did you upgrade the rod bolts?? I thought all factory rods were shot peened??

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Good bolts.. no, not all factory rods are shot penned
and my rod was still bolted to the crank but the
other end and chunks of the piston came out of the
block... it trashed everything in that engine
EDIT
tore it in half right in the middle

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Hmmmmmm I measured the cross section of a SB rod and compared it to a BB rod the cross section was very close..... making me think if it will survive in a 440 with 1000g pistons ........... it's a cake walk in a SB........

You never know, maybe something else went wrong........ That said I have H beams in my 408 and the good Manley's I Beams in my 360.

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LOL I was told they were Econo W-2's. Alot of this confusion I get is off the parts we even have! If they are really the race W-2's that would be cool! I started working on the heads and I'll post some before and after pics up maybe later tonight!

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Its easy to tell the difference... the race head has
a flat pad the rocker support bolts to... the econo
had a tall stand with the 1/2 round cut in it for
the rocker shaft to mount on

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The OP is like a chicken with his head cut off. 20 different directions at once. All the advice seems to be bouncing off his head. Start with a wiring harness and a good set of headers. Leave your rockers alone.

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So far you guys have put a dremel tool in this kids hands to ruin the heads. Then you have him buying rods and HS rockers and preaty soon he will be asking about pistons if he has'nt already. Then a cam and there will be 100 differant ideas for that.
Sb how about telling these guys how much money you have right now for this project? That will get all these guys in the ballpark. You seam to have unliminted time on your hands as in your working on this project everyday and asking more questions every day. Not to be a A/H but when do you work at a real job?
How about taking all the parts to a real machine shop and find out what is usable and what needs to be replaced.I can tell you one thing I do know is to leave the dremel on the bench and be happy with what you have or send the heads out to a profesonal head porter.These guys are not mentioning how easy it is to get the ports to big and hit water or after you get done and the head cracks after a few pass's.
Love how guys here on moparts are so egger to help a young guy. Which is great!! But no one ask the hard questions like How much money you have today to spend on this? What is your goal? What is the time frame? How much experance do you have with rebuilding motors from the ground up? Some of you guys just take it for granted all the guys that have Mopars are road scholars.
I am in the process of building a motor now and I am in over thousand dollars in parts in rotating assembly. All new stuff guys never used but was told they needed. Looking at thousand dollars for machine work.Could be more? Anouther 600 to 800 in rod bearings and rings and gaskets. Probly on the cheap side. Cam / lifters and push rods used roller will waste 400 to 500 dollars. Used rollers rockers 300 dollars and these are for just a stock replacement rocker add 200 dollars for W2s / Indy or B1s. Where am I going with this? The OP has not answer any question pertaining to questions that was asked about this.
So Sbvaliant do you have a plan and time table? Do you have around 4 grand to spend? This is using new/used parts. How many motors have you put together? Just count the ones that stayed in one peice.
Answer three questions and you will find you will get alot better answers,