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So are there deductions for non-correctness on reproduction parts

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Hi Dave,I am currently getting ready to send my bumpers out for rechroming.I heard that you have obtained nos for the valiant.Could you post some pixs of the bumpers?I have been told that there are imperfections in original bumpers that are not duplicated after rechroming Thanks in advance.

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Hello Sam! We did find all the "chrome" for this car in original NOS condition. You are correct about the finish. The originals appear to have a bit of an unfinished (scratched?) metal surface UNDER the chrome. I took some pictures of the rear bumper and one of the reverse lights we were able to locate. Dave Stuart has been responsible for finding about 75% of these parts. He is the Midwest District Zone Manager for Chrysler and has been able to locate original items from his data base that is linked with EVERY Chrysler outlet across the Country. (He has by far been the main catalyst to our project. We have even found all the original "paper" gaskets that a few were inquiring about earlier in this thread.) The "chrome" parts we have found are in beautiful condition! No scuffs or scratches whatsoever. No reproduction parts!!!

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...Here are a few photos of the battery.

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Hi Dave,
Thanks for the pictures of an assembly line battery. Perhaps you will be providing a repro service for the "correct" battery in our future?

Ola Nilsson

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Hi Dave
They also put the panel treatment (undercoat?) on before the skin was mounted. Same for the quarter panels

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Hi Mauro,
The panel treatment you mentioned is referred to as a Mastic sealer. It was also sprayed on prior to the door skin being mated to the door frame. That particular layer was not used for "corrosive" purposes but as a sound deadened. If that material was not applied to the large metal door skins they would have sounded like a bass drum when they were closed. The same for the quarter panels. Had the Mastic material had not been applied to that area, rocks or any other exterior "knock" would have resonated throughout the enclosed (void) areas. The black color is over spray that blew through the door openings while it was being painted at the factory.

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How will you remove all the rust or surface oxidization on the inside of the upper half of the inner door structure as shown in the above picture?
I'm sure it wasn't there when the car was new....and you know we'll want before and after pictures once you're finished

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With rust remover!!?!!?!
Was this a trick question Alan? After spending over an hour to remove oxidation from a screw that was half way under the VIN tag, did you think THIS would really be an issue? When those parts are finished, you will NEVER know they had ANY trace of oxidation whatsoever. (If you like I will send you a complimentary framed copy of the “before” and “after” photos.)

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I'm sure it wasn't there when the car was new....and you know we'll want before and after pictures once you're finished

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Hi Alan,
Help me out with this one! I literally just received an email from someone reminding me of a previous post (about the Cuda in 2005) where someone claimed, THAT particular car did not represent a factory delivered vehicle because there would have been “flash” rust on the bare metal resulting from the water test. I certainly can’t offer both types of “finishes” so what should do I do? Do I take the rust off and have one side argue that it SHOULD be there, or leave it as is and have the other side argue that it SHOULD NOT be there? The other option would be to remove only half of it and be correct on both counts!

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The answer is quite obivious....and we here at MOPARTS wouldn't expect anything less.....

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You just made this too easy! At this point I could say that we DID remove the flash rust and everything you see in the pictures WAS the results of our simulated “water test.” Isn’t that the type of response that prompts the suspicious, rhetoric questions regarding many of the things we are doing or the parts we find? (I especially love the poorly camouflaged “test” questions.)

Don't worry Alan, shortcuts, embellishments or compromised truths will never be a part of the equation. People can safely perceive this project for what it represents. Those who consistently “question” under a suspicious or cynical view are simply exposing their own ilk or personal traits. What you see is what you get!

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Great...Now we'll need "before", "after" and "DURING" pictures...

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I experimented a little with the removal of the flash rust. I spent about 10 minuets on a small area to show the contrasting difference. (The wiper motor area in the picture was not included.) I should be able to remove all traces of flash rust with no abrasive materials and the metal will look pristine.

I also included a picture of the quarter side marker light area. There was a huge debate a year ago as to whether body components or accessories (with gaskets) were painted on or off the car. Would anyone care to guess how the quarter side marker lights were painted on this vehicle?

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Hey Mr. Alan G! You will never guess what we figured out today after looking at the build sheet to this old jalopy? It takes a GREEN cap Battery. The good thing is that the battery I got from Ed Meyer actually WAS a green cap style. He had an extra set of original yellow caps that we switched out. I am getting the green ones back from him the next time we visit in a few weeks. (They were even in better condition than the NICE yellow ones.) I will post some pictures of those when I receive them. Someone mentioned that the green caps are not reproduced so that even makes the battery a bit more unique.
If there are any other “behind the scenes" photos you wish to see, let me know. We have taken over 500 so far and still clicking away! (Thanks for your input Alan!! )

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Hey Dave,
Thanks for the Great Post/ Pictures
Would your be willing to help out with some yellow caps for me to use. I will return them when done
Bob