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I can shift my face-plate Richmond 5-speed at 6800 RPM
My clutch is set-up to be easy on the drivetrain though so maybe you should ask "what clutch wont destroy my drivetrain choice"

Gus

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Larry what has been done to your trans to make it live? Also what are you running for a clutch/pp?

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Other than installing a new set of syncro assemblies when I bought it, and massaging the side cover detents a little, the trans is stock. I run 2 quarts of ATF with 1 quart of gear oil. My car is set up to spin the tires at launch when I race it. I run a 29 x 12 slick. My clutch is an 11" Centerforce Plate with a Ram pedal disc and a Mcloed aluminum flywheel. I'll adjust my 2 step anywhere from 4600 - 5600 rpm, depending on track conditions. The slicks will spin about 5-10 feet.The car is not as consistant as an all out race car, but that's the way I want it.

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I can shift my face-plate Richmond 5-speed at 6800 RPM
My clutch is set-up to be easy on the drivetrain though so maybe you should ask "what clutch wont destroy my drivetrain choice"

Gus

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Gus may I ask how heavy you car is what kind of tq numbers do you estimate at the fly wheel? As you know I am in the same boat. There is a NOS Nash 5-speed that is supposedly a special drag racing model for around 2k that has peaked my interest.

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I am not quite sure of my torque figure but the Wallace calculator puts my engine in the 635 HP range with my ET and weight of 3660 with me at the wheel.
I will be trying a new Centerforce dual friction set-up this year to see how it works with my combo
I am putting the 18 spline HEMI box with syncros back in for street use and putting the Richmond 5-speed on the shelf for a while along with my Hays Mark XII plate and Ram six puck disc.
That Nash box sound interesting and it should hold up pretty well with your application
Gus

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I can shift my face-plate Richmond 5-speed at 6800 RPM
My clutch is set-up to be easy on the drivetrain though so maybe you should ask "what clutch wont destroy my drivetrain choice"

Gus

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Gus may I ask how heavy you car is what kind of tq numbers do you estimate at the fly wheel? As you know I am in the same boat. There is a NOS Nash 5-speed that is supposedly a special drag racing model for around 2k that has peaked my interest.

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I am not quite sure of my torque figure but the Wallace calculator puts my engine in the 635 HP range with my ET and weight of 3660 with me at the wheel.
I will be trying a new Centerforce dual friction set-up this year to see how it works with my combo
I am putting the 18 spline HEMI box with syncros back in for street use and putting the Richmond 5-speed on the shelf for a while along with my Hays Mark XII plate and Ram six puck disc.
That Nash box sound interesting and it should hold up pretty well with your application
Gus

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Thank you for the info. It sounds like you are taking a break from racing the car. One of the reasons I don't like the idea of going to a lenco is losing my h-pattern shifter. I'm old school like that I guess. For now my fortified 18 spline box will be fine so I have some time to learn/research/shop. I'll let you know what I find out on the nash box.

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My train of though was leaning towards the idea that a heavier car with more torque is going to be harder on the syncro (or whatever you decide to use) and a heavy car is going to create much stress on the transmission. It seems to only be an issue if you are racing the car on a surface that provides good traction so you may be ok for a street car. In my case me 3600 lb. car is going to need a very strong transmission to be reliable for both the abuse of drag racing and still retain the ability to be street driven (down shifted, etc). Personally I like to overbuild stuff because I tend to only spend the money once instead of multiple times.

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Something that comes up from time to time with us older racers is, what is harder on a drive line, "granny shifting" or "power shifting"? Most of us old guys, not all, but most, feel that granny shifting is harder because of the "loading and unloading" of the drive line. Obviously a heavier car will be harder on drivetrain parts. That's why I try to "cushion" the hit by slipping the tires a bit. Slipper clutches accomplish the same thing, but fot me, they are too high maintenance and expensive. Buy that's just me.

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Why are you putting the 833 back in? What exactly make the nash box unacceptable on the street?
Thanks
Curt

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Well I have a fresh one on the shelf and I want to go back to an H-pattern shifter for easier street driving.Driving a V-gate with a faceplate transmission around town can get old after a while
Sure it's fun blasting down the road shifting full throttle never lifting and barely touching the clutch,but going up into town to get an ice cream or a burger is much easier with syncros and an H-pattern shifter
I may race it again sometime in the future but for now I want a street car that can run 10's
Gus