I have a '67 Fury with a '76 318 engine. When I installed the engine I changed to electronic ignition that the '76 was equipped with. Since then I have had several problems with this system. I had to replace the module once when the car all of a sudden would not start. I have also have incidents where it will not start right away and then all of a sudden will start right up. I have changed the resistor and connector but it still is not right.
My other '67 Fury is the original 318 engine and has the original points distributor set up and gives me no trouble. It always starts right up and runs great. I am going to check out the other system but am wondering if I could install a '72 318 point distributor in the '76 engine. Would it be compatible and run all right is my question with this change? Thanks for any info.
John

yes,you can install a points dist in it

I do it on all the drives I run to lose the crappy stock elec ing

you can pick up a reman dist at the zone for about 30$ with a core

my 85 truck with an 88 318 has a 72 points dist with a pertronix points conversion in it with there 40,000 volt coil

it works flawless and I have just replaced a cap now and then

to add the 72 dist to an elec ign car you just keep the keyed hot wire on the coil and remove the - side wire,then put the blck points wire on the - side of coil and go...very simple I have used the elec coil na d seem to have to replace the points about every 3 months or so...but not with an older coil that is for the points dist

stab it and go

ecu's can be trouble prone. I had (3) in a row that were bad. You might get a FBO module/ballast or an MP chrome one(probably cheaper). You could be up & (troublefree) running in 10 minutes.

Hey Guys,
I really appreciate your tips and info. I guess I'm not the only one who has had problems with this system. I am happy with the ignition points as they are not a pain to change. Now is the Petronix set up different than the Chrysler ECU unit that I am now using?
John

yes, it is diff set up

put your car back to points and remove all the elec stuff

take a points dist,remove the points cond,istall the plate and pertronix system

it has 8 magnets taped to a round deal like the reluctor on a elec system

has its own rotor button,(which some over the counter ones dont work that well)

install the cap hook the 2 wires to the coil with a keyed hot wire(stock ign wire for the points system)

gut the ballist res and solder in a piece of #10 standed wire

thats it,never change points again

the bypassing of the ballist is to give the unit a full 12 volts

it will run without messing with the stock ballist but,you will notice more performance with it bypassed,the unit only see 7-8 volts and could cause it to fail( i ran mine about 4 trs like this and never a prob though)noticed the performance was up after I gave it 12 volts too

gutting the ballist and using the shell is to keep it looking stock under the hood,cant tell its in there unless you notice the red and black wire or the cap is off

well worth the $$$ IMO.I have change all mine over in the last 7 yrs and still have not had any probs with it

and dont peel the tape and magnets of the reluctor wheel....I have seen people do that and say its not working...

about 80$ and your running trouble free and the car is back to stock

I would update the voltage reg with one of the solid state upgrade regulaters the have now days,it looks like a stock one but has a circit boad thingy in it

best 2 things I did with my 68 Dart,pertronix and a solid state voltage regulater

I would replace the pickup in the distributor and make sure the gap is set correctly. I think going back to points is a step in the wrong direction but it is up to you.

I use a points dist with the pertronix covversion in my truck to get rid of the problematic stock ecu/pick up

this way you get a little better vac advance than with the stock elec dist

and I have had no failures since then

so it not going as backwards as you might think,just a diff way of getting the elec part on a points style system

and IMO it is a good up grade on a elec dist with ecu crap still bolted up and looking stock,just bypassed by the pertronix system

just food for thought for some one who may not know its out there

Thank again for all of the tips. I will be looking into it this coming weekend.
John

works for some,not for others I guess

I have been on the side,miles from any thing cause of the crap,leanburn no better

spend $$ on this,that,some of those and still not run 1/2 the time

throw in points dist and it revs till it blows

I geuss I should also add that...I do this in conjuction with adding headers and a stock 4-v intake,use a early to mid 70s chivy Qjet or a eddy carb at the same time

cant stand the wimpy 2-v carbs on a teen

and with a stock 2 -v cam it seems to be a big boost in drivability and performance

then on to 360 heads(yes I know it lowers the comp)and a cam swap,stock high stall tc,then add gears

72-73 was the first yrs for the elec ign

and they start with smog air pumps,feed back carbs by mid 80s

If you must run a Mopar electronic get a 4 pin ECU from MOPAR no aftermarket.
I run pertronix and points both in two different cars + electronic oin my trk etc the pertronix is troble free as are the points said it before and I 'll state it again when its time to change points it would be time to clean and lube a electronic dist about once a year or 2. I have seen too many elec dist with frozen or sticking advance weights or broken springs.The problem seem to center on the off shore pickup plates and the bad Mopar perf ignition boxes. Don't say you never had one go bad I have a collection of that crap. 7 boxes all perf all bad over the years