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well I have decided I am going to try what I already have, with a half fill to the freeze plugs since I already have a TON of embecco 885 sitting here...I'll roll the dice, take my chances, and see what happens

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My 416 was half filled. Never got a chance to put it on th street. My 230 cnc Indy heads decided they were better suited for watering the lawn.
I did get 11 Dyno pulls with it.

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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The only thing you can do now is torque the mains,
put 1 head on and torque... the level the other
side in both fore and aft and side to side... fill
it to the point you want and then install the head
and torque... give it 2 days min then do the other side

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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The only thing you can do now is torque the mains,
put 1 head on and torque... the level the other
side in both fore and aft and side to side... fill
it to the point you want and then install the head
and torque... give it 2 days min then do the other side

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Thats what I was planning on doing, that stuff exactly...I hope its enough for the cylinders to not shift

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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The only thing you can do now is torque the mains,
put 1 head on and torque... the level the other
side in both fore and aft and side to side... fill
it to the point you want and then install the head
and torque... give it 2 days min then do the other side

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Thats what I was planning on doing, that stuff exactly...I hope its enough for the cylinders to not shift

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Experiment with the cement. From what I gather you have plenty of it. I could be wrong but the problem with cement shrinking is that it cures to fast.
IMO the longer it takes to cure, the stronger the cement
Pour some in a metal cup and see how it cures. Mix some metal shaving in it. :

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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Don't fill it, you will be sorry Do you have access to a dial bore gauge that you can check your cylinder walls before and after from the bottom with both heads torque down before and after filling? If you do you should check it and let us know your results I'll bet that you see a .003 or more change in the straightness of the cylinder walls, espcially the center cylinders I sincerely hope you don't see that happen to your motor

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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The only thing you can do now is torque the mains,
put 1 head on and torque... the level the other
side in both fore and aft and side to side... fill
it to the point you want and then install the head
and torque... give it 2 days min then do the other side

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Thats what I was planning on doing, that stuff exactly...I hope its enough for the cylinders to not shift

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Experiment with the cement. From what I gather you have plenty of it. I could be wrong but the problem with cement shrinking is that it cures to fast.
IMO the longer it takes to cure, the stronger the cement
Pour some in a metal cup and see how it cures. Mix some metal shaving in it. :

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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Don't fill it, you will be sorry Do you have access to a dial bore gauge that you can check your cylinder walls before and after from the bottom with both heads torque down before and after filling? If you do you should check it and let us know your results I'll bet that you see a .003 or more change in the straightness of the cylinder walls, espcially the center cylinders I sincerely hope you don't see that happen to your motor

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Cab, im gonna roll the dice and take my chances...I know you never had good luck with it, but for me just like I will be doing, and hopefully I will be back here with a tale of success instead of carnage lol

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My only concern now is that my block is already machined, and I can't get it remachined...so I want to pour the stuff, but am worried about the best way to do so without moving the block i.e. torque the mains down I know, but do I need to put a head on afterwards and torque it so the cylinder doesn't shift, or???

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The only thing you can do now is torque the mains,
put 1 head on and torque... the level the other
side in both fore and aft and side to side... fill
it to the point you want and then install the head
and torque... give it 2 days min then do the other side

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Thats what I was planning on doing, that stuff exactly...I hope its enough for the cylinders to not shift

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Experiment with the cement. From what I gather you have plenty of it. I could be wrong but the problem with cement shrinking is that it cures to fast.
IMO the longer it takes to cure, the stronger the cement
Pour some in a metal cup and see how it cures. Mix some metal shaving in it. :

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Thats a good idea! The stuff is apparently supposed to be non shrinking, they advertise it all over the product information sheets...its the expanding that I am worried about, because obviously if it expands then that is what will shift the block and cylinders

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Pour it in a cup. Let it cure. Place in oven heat it and let it cool.

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Pour it in a cup. Let it cure. Place in oven heat it and let it cool.

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You are correct when saying the slower it cures the
stronger it is... the thing with concrete is the
moisture in it... the longer it can hold moisture the
more strength it will have... I went to concrete school
in the military and if this product he is using is like
cement(as in Portland Cement)then you want to hold
the moisture in it as long as possible.. the way to
do that is eliminate the air to it... air draws off
moisture... adding a metal product is a gamble due
to a unknown factor as what percentage to add ...
you can try it.... IF he can REALLY control the moisture
evaporation it will have far less shrinkage

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http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/p02/...ms/Embeco%20885

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Looking at the data it looks like a product I have
used before... its got good non shrinkage and good
pressure strength(11,500 psi) it also has some epoxy
characteristics to it based on its dry time and yield..
looks like a good product... I didnt see any growth
factor so hopefully you wont see any

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Also found this video interesting...I know he is using the Moroso stuff, which supposedly DOES shrink, but he does it with the entire engine together....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvmupoDIsZ0

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Also found this video interesting...I know he is using the Moroso stuff, which supposedly DOES shrink, but he does it with the entire engine together....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvmupoDIsZ0

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Moroso block filler is what my block was filled with. Of course it was done before any machine work ( line boring, Cyl. boring and decking/squaring).

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On one of the blocks I filled I used the Moroso filler...
it was much creamier and flowed in better... I filled
another with Hard Block.. I didnt care for it...
both were filled prior to machine work.... plus I
used a honing plate torqued down

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Im going to pour it either way...I know the best option is to pour BEFORE, but I have talked to some people in the know and I should be ok.

I am more worried about the fill I plan on using...but if it seems like a low expansion type of fill, I think I should be ok

Just trying to find out now more about those who have used the same stuff as me, and whether they used it after machining and noted differences

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Myself... being where your at right now I would
fill to what you want then have the bores honed again...
it isnt much cost then you wouldnt have to worry...
if it measures out before honing then fine but let
your machinist check it(all he has to do is check
it with his bore gauge in multiple spots)... JMO