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If you are going to make over 600HP with a stock block, You should ( at least )half fill it - and go aftermarket main caps or a girdle. No question IMO on that one. You should also make sure the block sonic tests real good.

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When you say aftermarket main caps, are you referring to the 4 bolt ones? or are there 2 bolts that are available to add strength? I always thought adding 4 bolt caps to a stock block weakened it more than anything

Never been a big fan of girdles...Have always felt that most of the small block designs don't seem like they would do much...but thats just my opinion

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Not a girdle fan ether. Went with Milodon 4 blt main set up on mine.

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I have to ask why the 4 bolt caps when most say it actually weakens the block? I have thought about it myself, and think its probably the single best thing one could do in the bottom end IF it wasn't said that the material there is too thin...I am just wondering what your reasoning was when you made that decision

Not saying 4 bolt caps are bad, because really, I've never installed them to know if they were to actually weaken a factory block...I am just going by what I read in so many places

I appreciate all the advice so far

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1. I hard blocked it. 2. The shimming with washers thing with the girdle set up just seemed kinda hokey to me - and lots of parts involved. 3. My machinist ( highly qualified and very experienced guy ) recommended Milodon 4 bolt caps due to strength and as said, similar heat expansion rate as the block. I mentioned block thinness in the web area and he said that wasn't a problem if the job was done correctly. Time will tell if I made the right decision. BTW, I believe it cost less to go with the 4 blt cap set up verses the girdle, so the guy wasn't trying to sell me something.

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Thanks!

it's still the original block that came in the truck in '99... in case the years matter that much, or if comparing the Magnum to the LA is like apples and oranges?

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If you are going to make over 600HP with a stock block, You should ( at least )half fill it - and go aftermarket main caps or a girdle. No question IMO on that one. You should also make sure the block sonic tests real good.

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When you say aftermarket main caps, are you referring to the 4 bolt ones? or are there 2 bolts that are available to add strength? I always thought adding 4 bolt caps to a stock block weakened it more than anything

Never been a big fan of girdles...Have always felt that most of the small block designs don't seem like they would do much...but thats just my opinion

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Not a girdle fan ether. Went with Milodon 4 blt main set up on mine.

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IMO best caps for the small block that going to see street duty.
Ductile iron stong and same expansion rate as the block. Matt

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Matt, are you running those caps in your Indy motor? Or is that motor an R3????

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Yes I am. The two outer bolts IMO stabilize the cap. My engine, IF WE ratify our contract, will be starting in a month or so. R3 Non saimese two bolt main.
Indy 230 cnc, 4.25 stroke, flat mechanical and 12 to 1 comp. Indy intake and 1020 race demon. Hopefully it doesn't go

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If you are going to make over 600HP with a stock block, You should ( at least )half fill it - and go aftermarket main caps or a girdle. No question IMO on that one. You should also make sure the block sonic tests real good.

---

When you say aftermarket main caps, are you referring to the 4 bolt ones? or are there 2 bolts that are available to add strength? I always thought adding 4 bolt caps to a stock block weakened it more than anything

Never been a big fan of girdles...Have always felt that most of the small block designs don't seem like they would do much...but thats just my opinion

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Not a girdle fan ether. Went with Milodon 4 blt main set up on mine.

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I have to ask why the 4 bolt caps when most say it actually weakens the block? I have thought about it myself, and think its probably the single best thing one could do in the bottom end IF it wasn't said that the material there is too thin...I am just wondering what your reasoning was when you made that decision

Not saying 4 bolt caps are bad, because really, I've never installed them to know if they were to actually weaken a factory block...I am just going by what I read in so many places

I appreciate all the advice so far

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1. I hard blocked it. 2. The shimming with washers thing with the girdle set up just seemed kinda hokey to me - and lots of parts involved. 3. My machinist ( highly qualified and very experienced guy ) recommended Milodon 4 bolt caps due to strength and as said, similar heat expansion rate as the block. I mentioned block thinness in the web area and he said that wasn't a problem if the job was done correctly. Time will tell if I made the right decision. BTW, I believe it cost less to go with the 4 blt cap set up verses the girdle, so the guy wasn't trying to sell me something.

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You notice that the ARP studs are not quite long enough. I thought I needed the MILODON studs. NOPE same problem. Last build I omitted the washer. But I think I will do what you did and have the stud recessed in the nut.

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Thanks!

it's still the original block that came in the truck in '99... in case the years matter that much, or if comparing the Magnum to the LA is like apples and oranges?

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I have no idea to be honest if the earlier stuff is stronger or weaker....I hear both opinions...Mine is a 91 block, so newer just like yours, although mine is LA (again, not sure there is much of a difference there)

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IMO with the quality control that Chrysler had in those days I would say it is a Crap Shoot.
I have a stock bore 1969 or 70 340 that is alot lighter that my 1988 360 block.
That thing is comparable to my R3

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If you are going to make over 600HP with a stock block, You should ( at least )half fill it - and go aftermarket main caps or a girdle. No question IMO on that one. You should also make sure the block sonic tests real good.

---

When you say aftermarket main caps, are you referring to the 4 bolt ones? or are there 2 bolts that are available to add strength? I always thought adding 4 bolt caps to a stock block weakened it more than anything

Never been a big fan of girdles...Have always felt that most of the small block designs don't seem like they would do much...but thats just my opinion

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Not a girdle fan ether. Went with Milodon 4 blt main set up on mine.

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IMO best caps for the small block that going to see street duty.
Ductile iron stong and same expansion rate as the block. Matt

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Matt, are you running those caps in your Indy motor? Or is that motor an R3????

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Yes I am. The two outer bolts IMO stabilize the cap. My engine, IF WE ratify our contract, will be starting in a month or so. R3 Non saimese two bolt main.
Indy 230 cnc, 4.25 stroke, flat mechanical and 12 to 1 comp. Indy intake and 1020 race demon. Hopefully it doesn't go

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Yes I am. The two outer bolts IMO stabilize the cap. My engine, IF WE ratify our contract, will be starting in a month or so. R3 Non saimese two bolt main.
Indy 230 cnc, 4.25 stroke, flat mechanical and 12 to 1 comp. Indy intake and 1020 race demon. Hopefully it doesn't go

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My 500" BB in the Dart was half filled, I wouldn't do it again without a good oil cooler. After 20 minutes of cruising the oil pressure would drop down to 20 at idle and make me nervous.

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"The two outer bolts stablize the cap" was my machinists contention also. I think the torque was only 60psi on them if I remember correctly.

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I have a stock 340 block that has billet steel caps
on it ... its a nice block and set up... on mine
the outer bolts are 3/8" and only need like 40# torque
if I remember right

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Mike, do you know whose caps they are? I thought I remember reading on here before that you had said its not worth the gamble to install the 4 bolt caps on a factory block as there isn't enough material...is the 340 block you have a T/A block or something?

Would you install 4 bolt caps if you were building a stock block motor? or do you still feel they weaken it?

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I won't use block filler again under any conditions, never again, not good I redid and them made another complete motor for a NHRA stocker racer, the original block was filled to about 1/2 way up the cylinder walls by the formwer engine shop. We, me and the dyno operator, where dyno testing the first motor when the dyno owner came out with a infra red temp gun and read the side of the block, he ask us why we where running the motor so hot We had set the water temps running between 110 and 120 F set off of the dyno cooling tower. He had read the side of the block and below the cement was 180 F and above the cement fill line was 110 to 120F I didn't fill the new motor and it made the exact same HP and torque with the same heads, intake, carb and camshaft, rocker arms and so on as the original short block Lots of discussion on this topic, every builder and keyboard expert has there own idea on this, you heard mine If the block you have needs help buy a better block Don't patch it with fill BTW, one of the 426 hemi blocks I did fill at the owner insistance pushed a freeze plug out part way, I ended up replacing that freeze plug it after dyno testing it, I found out that the water was seeping down between the block and the cement, same thing on the cylinder walls, the cement shrunk after curing Why reduce the amount of coolant and contact surface by filling it with filler

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Lots of different opinions on block fill, 4 bolt mains on stock blocks, etc - and thats a good thing. The OP has to eventually make up his mind on which way to go and of course $ is always a concern - for the guy spending it. I went through all the above, before I went the way I did. I only have about 11 passes on my motor to date, so I sure don't have enough history to say I went the right way for my set up yet. Aint broke yet, but if and when it does, I aint tellin anyone! - ok, just kiddin.

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"The two outer bolts stablize the cap" was my machinists contention also. I think the torque was only 60psi on them if I remember correctly.

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I have a stock 340 block that has billet steel caps
on it ... its a nice block and set up... on mine
the outer bolts are 3/8" and only need like 40# torque
if I remember right

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Mike, do you know whose caps they are? I thought I remember reading on here before that you had said its not worth the gamble to install the 4 bolt caps on a factory block as there isn't enough material...is the 340 block you have a T/A block or something?

Would you install 4 bolt caps if you were building a stock block motor? or do you still feel they weaken it?

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I've never said I dont like 4 bolt caps... would I
recommend it on all builds ...nope... but the 3/8
outer bolts dont have a problem on the stock blocks...
I do have a T/A block but that one needs a set of
caps on it and when I decide to use it I will put
4 bolt caps back on it(I should pull that block out
of the pole barn and start prepping it for a build)...
I have a set of new in the box W-2s that need a home
but that will be a slow build up because I think I'm
finally running out of parts
EDIT
No I dont know whos caps they are... never seen these
caps before.. they are pinned also and thats nice..
there isnt any cap walk at all ... I bought this
block years ago and it had the caps on it already
(got it from a old roundy round racer

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"The two outer bolts stablize the cap" was my machinists contention also. I think the torque was only 60psi on them if I remember correctly.

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I have a stock 340 block that has billet steel caps
on it ... its a nice block and set up... on mine
the outer bolts are 3/8" and only need like 40# torque
if I remember right

---

Mike, do you know whose caps they are? I thought I remember reading on here before that you had said its not worth the gamble to install the 4 bolt caps on a factory block as there isn't enough material...is the 340 block you have a T/A block or something?

Would you install 4 bolt caps if you were building a stock block motor? or do you still feel they weaken it?

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I've never said I dont like 4 bolt caps... would I
recommend it on all builds ...nope... but the 3/8
outer bolts dont have a problem on the stock blocks...
I do have a T/A block but that one needs a set of
caps on it and when I decide to use it I will put
4 bolt caps back on it(I should pull that block out
of the pole barn and start prepping it for a build)...
I have a set of new in the box W-2s that need a home
but that will be a slow build up because I think I'm
finally running out of parts

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I might have a home for those W-2's if you are ever interested.

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"The two outer bolts stablize the cap" was my machinists contention also. I think the torque was only 60psi on them if I remember correctly.

---

I have a stock 340 block that has billet steel caps
on it ... its a nice block and set up... on mine
the outer bolts are 3/8" and only need like 40# torque
if I remember right

---

Mike, do you know whose caps they are? I thought I remember reading on here before that you had said its not worth the gamble to install the 4 bolt caps on a factory block as there isn't enough material...is the 340 block you have a T/A block or something?

Would you install 4 bolt caps if you were building a stock block motor? or do you still feel they weaken it?

---

I've never said I dont like 4 bolt caps... would I
recommend it on all builds ...nope... but the 3/8
outer bolts dont have a problem on the stock blocks...
I do have a T/A block but that one needs a set of
caps on it and when I decide to use it I will put
4 bolt caps back on it(I should pull that block out
of the pole barn and start prepping it for a build)...
I have a set of new in the box W-2s that need a home
but that will be a slow build up because I think I'm
finally running out of parts

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I might have a home for those W-2's if you are ever interested.

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I dont plan on dumping them but if I need more parts
than I figure I might sell them off(they are just
a set of econo heads)...when I get my Rampage done
I'll start on porting them and locating my parts to
see what I have and what I need

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Yes I am. The two outer bolts IMO stabilize the cap. My engine, IF WE ratify our contract, will be starting in a month or so. R3 Non saimese two bolt main.
Indy 230 cnc, 4.25 stroke, flat mechanical and 12 to 1 comp. Indy intake and 1020 race demon. Hopefully it doesn't go

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I hear ya about that contract stuff, its a real B.S. time right now here

Question for ya- if that R3 is a two bolt block, was it cast with extra material in the main webbing to allow for drilling the 4 bolt mains, or is it the same material thickness there as a production LA block?

Would you add 4 bolt caps to a factory block?

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"The two outer bolts stablize the cap" was my machinists contention also. I think the torque was only 60psi on them if I remember correctly.

---

I have a stock 340 block that has billet steel caps
on it ... its a nice block and set up... on mine
the outer bolts are 3/8" and only need like 40# torque
if I remember right

---

Mike, do you know whose caps they are? I thought I remember reading on here before that you had said its not worth the gamble to install the 4 bolt caps on a factory block as there isn't enough material...is the 340 block you have a T/A block or something?

Would you install 4 bolt caps if you were building a stock block motor? or do you still feel they weaken it?

---

I've never said I dont like 4 bolt caps... would I
recommend it on all builds ...nope... but the 3/8
outer bolts dont have a problem on the stock blocks...
I do have a T/A block but that one needs a set of
caps on it and when I decide to use it I will put
4 bolt caps back on it(I should pull that block out
of the pole barn and start prepping it for a build)...
I have a set of new in the box W-2s that need a home
but that will be a slow build up because I think I'm
finally running out of parts
EDIT
No I dont know whos caps they are... never seen these
caps before.. they are pinned also and thats nice..
there isnt any cap walk at all ... I bought this
block years ago and it had the caps on it already
(got it from a old roundy round racer

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How much could you get for that TA block?
Im thinking it maybe worth some coin to somebody who is restoring a AAR or TA.