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Now who else sells 25.x moly chassis kits? I've always worked with s&W but their 25.3 chassis kit only works for chargers and correct me if I'm wrong but coronets/satellites have a shorter wheelbase do they not? That's alot of bars needing work before they can be fitted. Any suggestions? The above pics of the 71 B body must've had issues too. I know the kit for the Camaro I did needed alot if modifying but I thought that was more because of the stupid stock subframe up front.

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I doubt you could utilize the cert with stock back half in a b-body.

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The actual "certification" is only for the drivers compartment area and main hoop supports. The type, style, or location of the suspension is not part of the certification process. So, yes you could use stock front and rear suspension. But then it kinda makes the need for 25.3 chassis a moot point, as I think it would be quite difficult to run faster than 7.50 on stock suspension!

And Moparpoor - I would really like to see some more of your 71! (I miss mine!)

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Prostreetdodge, do you have other angles of that CAD drawing?

Been thinking a little more about my possible rear suspension choices. I'd like to go the 4 link route but I also want to retain as much of the original car as possible including the floors and rails. In theory I could use this weld in Martz kit and still do the 25.3 cage, independent of one another correct? Or I could also go the Calvert route too. John is a super nice guy and with his record holding parts (7.24@200) I think a strong argument could be had between Calvert parts and a 4 link made my whoever.

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That was an image I found on a Google search. I think it was from one of the chassis kit companies (Jerry Bickel I think).

Since there is no spec on suspension, yes you can run stock front and rear frame rails. I kept my front frame rails (cut off the pinch weld flange and re-welded for a cleaner look) and installed an Alter-K-ation front end.

The SFI spec is for safety, so it pertains to the portion of the car which protects the driver in case of an incident. The faster and heavier the car, the more bars needed.

I plan on using mine as a street/strip toy, so I am basically doing a 25.5 cage. But, I am leaving out the funny car portion at the moment. The car will still pass to 8.50. And if someone else wants to buy it and make it faster, it will take very little to cert to 7.50. (basically the forward portion of the funny car cage). I have been 8.50 in a door car. I don't need to go faster.

What motor are you planning on using to need a chassis that fast?

And I hate to be the one to break it to you, but there is no way you are going to keep or reinstall a "stock" floor pan in the car once you have a 25.3 cage in it.

Scott

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Why can't you keep the stock floor?Their is no added bars between 25.5 and 25.3 in the floor area.Actually by keeping the stock floor you eliminate the use of #4 and #8 bars.Three major differences between 25.5 and 25.3.First 25.3 is all chromoly round tube or recently updated docol r8.25.5 can be eaither mild or 4130.Second 25.3 requires roof x brace #37 bars.25.5 requires only one diagnol #37.Third 25.3 requires multiple 1"diameter gussets at multiple given points.25.5 does not require.
Now will you have to drill some holes in the floor,yes!You will drill holes in the floor for the pillar bars and main hoop to intersect your #6 an #1 bars.Retaining the stock floor does require more effort usually.

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