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Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358166
12/24/12 01:47 PM
12/24/12 01:47 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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I will say a pertronix coil can be run with out a BR. been running mine that way for 17 yrs now. BUT.. I have a points dist with a pertronix points conversion/pertronix chrome 40,000 volt coil in my 68 Dart,now in my 85 truck. BR by-passed with a jumper or a #10 strand wire/solderd spades in the BR shell to hind it. my 88-440 truck will be getting a old skool mallory duel points dist with a pertronix points conversion in it with the chrome 40,000 volt coil as well. I remove all the stock ecu/elect crap. 
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Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358168
12/24/12 05:56 PM
12/24/12 05:56 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'd want an E coil, but I'm not sure which one
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358169
12/24/12 07:02 PM
12/24/12 07:02 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
PurpleBeeper
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
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I'm no ignition expert, but I've heard it's the ignition box that makes you need a ballast resistor and the coil doesn't matter. e.g. any Mopar ignition box = need ballast MSD box = no ballast  I know the ballast blow, but just keep a couple extra in the glove box.... or buy a MSD box and pick any coil you want.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: coil question
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1358170
12/24/12 07:03 PM
12/24/12 07:03 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
or buy a MSD box and pick any coil you want.
This! ^^^^
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Re: coil question
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1358171
12/24/12 07:24 PM
12/24/12 07:24 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
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Quote:
I'm no ignition expert, but I've heard it's the ignition box that makes you need a ballast resistor and the coil doesn't matter. e.g. any Mopar ignition box = need ballast
MSD box = no ballast
I know the ballast blow, but just keep a couple extra in the glove box.... or buy a MSD box and pick any coil you want.
sigh... and a stock coil will also overheat.
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Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358173
12/25/12 03:35 PM
12/25/12 03:35 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
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You can't just look at the coil as an isolated part. You need to look at the whole ignition system. It is the electronics box that determines if you can run the coil w/o a ballast resistor, not the coil itself. If the electronic box has a built in current limiter, you can connect whatever low-resistance/high current/high performance coil to your box. Go with a box+coil intended to be used w/o a ballast resistor. Example Pertronix Ignitor 2 & 3 plus the corresponding high performance coils. I'm sure MSD has something similar. 
Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
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Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358175
12/27/12 01:02 PM
12/27/12 01:02 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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On summits web site you can select coils by primary resistance. For example the Mallory 30451 "E" core coil has a primary resistance of 1.4 Ohms. I think that is close to combination of a stock coil primary resistance (around 0.7 Ohm) plus the ballast resistor (around 0.85 Ohm.)
Really, the worst case (hardest on the coil and ignition box) is with the ignition on, but the engine not running. With no distributor signal to the ignition box, the output transistor is on, grounding the coil so this is when the maximum current will flow through the coil and ignition box, with the current be limited (mostly) by the coils primary resistance. When the engine is running, the ignition box is switching on and off, and the ignition coils inductance will also limit the amount of current flowing through the coil/ignition box.
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Re: coil question
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1358176
12/27/12 04:43 PM
12/27/12 04:43 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
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Quote:
On summits web site you can select coils by primary resistance. For example the Mallory 30451 "E" core coil has a primary resistance of 1.4 Ohms. I think that is close to combination of a stock coil primary resistance (around 0.7 Ohm) plus the ballast resistor (around 0.85 Ohm.)
In theory you are absolutely right, the ignition box would see the same.
But, in practice it might not work so well. The reason is the cranking power. Remember that with the ballast resistor in the system it's bypassed and the coil sees the full battery power.
Let's assume battery voltage is 11 Volts while cranking, let's see what the numbers say:
a) original system, ballast .7 Ohms, coil .7 Ohms.
Power to the coil (ballast bypassed) is 11*11/.7 = 173 Watts
b) no ballast, new 1.4 Ohm coil.
Power to the coil is 11*11/1.4 = 86 Watts.
Now you have only half the power to the coil while cranking! If you put half in on the primary, you will have half out from the secondary to the spark plugs!
Go with a complete system, an electronic unit + a coil that the vendor of the electronic unit is recommending.
Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
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Stock coil needs a ballast.
explain about the petronix kit, does it eliminate the ballast and ecu box or?? Is it as good as the stock electronic ignition? Does it have as hot a spark as electronic? Reliable?