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Anymore Davey Jones locker secrets out there that need to be shared?
I know some of you are keen and lean with some new tricks.
I especially liked the downwards hood pin deal that the cat with the sleeper Turquoise 62' Savoy created.

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I`m going w/a plastic rear view mirror and found a guy locally w/1/8`th lexan for my windshield............wasn`t gonna go lexan but figured what the hell.....soon baby soon.

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Anymore Davey Jones locker secrets out there that need to be shared?
I know some of you are keen and lean with some new tricks.
I especially liked the downwards hood pin deal that the cat with the sleeper Turquoise 62' Savoy created.

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Your Lexan windshield should not be too hard to form since it has a rather modest contour. Just take your time and shut off the cell and it will all go well. You should shave at least 10 lbs from that glass alone.
Is the plastic rear mirror you're using look like your current one?
Those side door mirrors can weigh much as well. I kept mine so as to keep the heat away from giving me flack.
I've been busy lately with work, but I have a few ideas in the works and/or already implanted. When I get a moment, I'll post 'em.

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My dr. side mirror is plastic and no pass mirror and the rear view mirrior is metal and falls after a pass anyhow. Guess I`ll ditch the visore and paint a nice border on top for sun glare............this is fun and rewarding for sure.

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"Weight at the front of CG helps ET"
This came off wrong to me as well, but then I figured after reading it over a few times that what Wize was trying to actually say was: weight REMOVED from the front of CG would help ET.
I personally have looked into removing rotational weight from using different weight tires more than actual wheels. I found that my car cut ET by three tenths by switching to lighter tires, and then not much at all from lighter wheels.

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Three tenth`s from tires? That`s crazy................was that the only factor or change to the car back to back?

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dont know if this has been mentioned but if you have a full cage including the halo inside the roof then cut the supports that stiffen the roof for rollover puposes and strength, it is the boxed metal along the upper windshield which also supports the visors and rearwiew mirror and along the sides to the rear pillars that connect to the wheel wells it is heavy and time consuming to cut out without butchering it is worth a good amount of weight, the roof is heavy too it would be nice if somebody made a fiberglass roof or shaped one from aluminum, o ya also remove the center support it is where your dome light is attached it is glued so it takes some effort to remove. iv removed alot and i bet my car weighs somwhere of 2580-2700 one day ill buy scales and ill know, and if you have a lathe the scallup all the bolts and nuts you can, when i worked at Boeing factory i seen some neat bolts and nuts that are trimmed without losing there capability for example a nut would be 1/3 to 1/2 turnured down ( cutting the hex off )leaving just enuff to use a wrench or socket but still having all its thread, hope this didnt confuse anybody.

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Cool info. I just have a bar for now but will more than likely step up and cage it so I can keep going faster safely and legally but ONLY after a 9.59 @ 137+..........So maybe not such a good idea removing roof support at this time in case things go bad..............

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I agree with ThumperD on the roof supports. I'd leave them in if no Full Roll cage is present.
I also have given the center cross brace some thought where the Dome light goes and figured that even though it would probably do nothing much on a roll over, it helps a little to keep the roof in its intended shape. I did remove the Dome light assembly on mine which shaved 3/4 lb.
I only have a 12 point roll bar/Halo in my car, not a cage as some of my well informed friends have indicated in the past.
Roll cage and Roll bar are two siblings of a different Father, one being Big Brother, the other being the brat kid.
In a fantasy no expense sheik type of built, I would some how have the front longitudes, K-member, fender aprons, radiator cross brace, firewall, fenders, Bumpers, hood and doors all made out of Aluminum. This would all then be bolted and super Hi-tech glued to the main body, B pillars with roof which would be made out of Titanium and the rear quarters and Bumper out of cold roll steel. In other words, the weight increases in the direction of the rear of the car.
Talk about a CG Lightweight masterpiece. Talk about wishful thinking. LOL.

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Talk about wads of greenbacks.............