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No, only because I have not been convinced that aluminum cable could carry the current needed to start the engine and keep all things going with the battery in the trunk.
ThumperDart has looked into some type of Copper coated 2 gauge aluminum cable that supposedly works, but I have not heard enough feedback to justify it.
The bulkhead connection was interestingly mentioned that could make a smaller/lighter gauge cable work.
Anyone want to add a comment to that?

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I'm using the Accel "Lightening Cable" and it works great with the trunk mount battery. I have also optimized my wiring size for every wire in my car. I am even using the thin jacketed wire as well. You would be surprised how many people could get by with 18 and 20 GA wires where most "race" car wiring kits provide 14 and 16 GA wiring for everything. I think I have 20 GA going to the rear (at least 14') to power the LED tail lights. Anyway, you definately have to think outside the box when looking for places to loose weight. And no, none of it comes cheaply after the big hitters are gone.

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408
Okay, I'm gonna look deeply into those Accel cables that you and others have mentioned.
My setup is a street/strip car and I still have headlights, Taillights, electric fan, MSD 6AL ignition, Aeromotive A-1000 electric fuel pump in the tank and that's about it.
408. Do you have your main hot lead battery cable connected at a bulkhead box on the firewall and going to the battery out back?
* And if so, does that cable continue after the bulk head as a second piece to the starter?
* What gauge is the main hot lead cable leading back to the battery?
I'm not an electrical kind of guy since the Third rail zapped me quite a few years back. LOL.

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2GA from the trunk to a power distribution lug on my ignition panel (about where the arm rest is on the pass side). I do have another 2GA cable that goes from there to the 250A starter solenoid and then from there to the starter. I know some people frown on this style of wiring a starter, but it has never let me down. Looks clean and was the low weight solution.

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I used 20 gauge which on some gauge tools read as .0375 which is similar to what the factory used on their 64' AFX cars.
You probably can not see it clearly on those black and white photos of mine, but just remember that once you introduce a bend or a edge to any flat stock sheet metal, it work hardens and becomes stronger. This is especially beneficial when working with thin gauge aluminum.
Besides that Grille cross brace, the vertical braces and stone guard underneath are also Aluminum. The hood latch/levers and other misc stuff are no longer needed because the hood pins take care of that.

Shaved a total of 14 lbs on the very front.

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Thanks, yeah like if the import guys needed to get rid of weight. LOL.

I'll look into this copper VS Aluminum and the gauge that it ends up being. I think like what 408 said on here 2A is probably what I would need if I go that route. I'd just like to keep my ignition solenoids/relays in their stock positions and look.
After all, this is a STOCK street car. LOL.

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I went w/a # 1 and it was a LOT lighter than the cobbled up welding junk I had and I`d rather be safe than sorry..........

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#1 from the Accel line up?

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No, just the old fashioned copper............I try to get as much as I can locally.

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Rear mounted Braile battery (21) LBS and welding cable.
The battery tray is Aluminum and mounted with long high strength carriage head bolts that go through the chassis. two of them are underneath the battery.

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