What do you think of the new info on block webs, etc. on the following site?

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

I was happy to see it. Nice pictures, good info.
FWIW, the '75 400 block in my current motor has the wide block webs shown on that sites '73 motor. Mine has the 3.75" wide connection to the bore, and the 0.57" thick area.


Since the 440 blocks were only about .375" thick the 400 block could be align bored for 440 mains and still be better than a 440 block. .575-0.375=0.200" thicker, bored to 440 mains it would still be 0.140" thicker than a 440 block.

I read that about a month ago; lots of good info. Dispels alot of the myths surrounding the various blocks.

I have a few 400 & 440 blocks here; now I gotta go out & start measuring stuff.

Just like I've been saying. The 400 proves itself to be one of the best MBB's conceived.

needs a pic of the later webbing on the 440 and a pick of the thick web 400 on there ...

here is a thick web 400 block that has been converted to cross bolt mains and opened up to the 440 main size.

Andy, you've done it again...I am overcome with engine lust.
R.

Wait until you see the bored out cam tunnel in that block for the big 52mm cam journals.

Andy, very nice block mods.
Too bad somebody doesn't make a low deck Megablock for us, it would save some money.

Andy...

Is that block pictured above with the billet caps a 3614230? It would seem to me I would keep the smaller (400) main bearing size, as I would think you would want the extra strength in the saddles of the block, vs. the crank, since most cranks these days are forged 4340 steel, and the block is 30-40 year old standard production cast iron. The metal of the crank should be many times stronger than that of the block, not to mention the mains on a crank are completely solid forged steel, and with the block you are talking about areas that have relatively narrow cross sections if you were to "chop" the block apart and look at the thickness of any given part of it. Any opinions?
Brandon...

This motor is getting a 4.250 stroke crank with 2.200 pins so there wasn't much overlap on the crank. Plus, it is a high quality crank that is fully heat treated so it seemed like a sin to grind on it. Also, this motor build is all about exploring some different ideas.

440source.com, remember:

Quote:

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Since the 440 blocks were only about .375" thick the 400 block could be align bored for 440 mains and still be better than a 440 block. .575-0.375=0.200" thicker, bored to 440 mains it would still be 0.140" thicker than a 440 block.

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And Andy's block is one of those even thicker 0230 blocks with tons of meat in the webs.

That Callies crank will likely live a long life in many different blocks/engines. And if you leave it at 440 main size, you could put it in a megablock, Indymax, or KB block in the future.

What an interesting and informative thread

Tech archieves material here!

That is another good point Jim. By not grinding on the high dollar crank, I can probably use it for many years in different motors.

Chenoweth Racing Enterprises did the machine work on my block. Talk to them if you want some idea on the amount of work that it takes to bore a 400 block to 440 mains. It is a huge amount of work but sometimes you have to do what you have to do.

Someone needs to build a low deck race block. Anyone have a spare $200,000 sitting around in a money market account that you want to invest in some patterns? A high quality low deck race block with 2.75 mains, cross bolted, bushed lifter bores, priority oiling system, ready for roller bearing cams, etc. Wow, those things would sell.