Ok stroker guy's, could anyone post up some
pics of the notches on the bottom of the
cylinder boresm I am contemplating a stroker
build and was interested in seeing pics of
how the bores are notched for rod clearance,
and also if you had to take any material off
the pick up boss in the engine.

Thanks
Dave

What size and rods?

4.25" arm and steel rod = no notches

Might say what engine also... BB or SB

Also, since yours is not notched already, besides pics I would do a test fit, and see what and where it needs notched.

A decade or so ago, I put an 8 bolt hemi crank in a 400, I had to grind on the throws.
I put a 4.15 crank in a 440 with BME aluminum rods 2.375 and had to grind on the bores and clearance the internal oil pick up boss.
A 4.375 stroke in a 440 and 2.2 steel rod, had to plug the oil pick up and notch the botton bore.

4.25 stroke, GRP aluminum rods , 2.2 end, bottom notched and no internal pick up

Kits like 440 source have smaller throws for clearance, to an extent.

It's always best to mock up the assembly and rotate each cylinder and remove the amount necessary.Always do the two rods together on the same journal and move them laterally to make sure there is enough clearence.Don't forget the area at the oil pickup screws into.

You do not need bore notches for either. also a 3.915 stroke 470 uses a 6.700 rod and a shelf stock 1.30-1.32 shelf stock piston.

BB/SB the procedure is the same.You need to physically see the area to be clearenced and how much.We like a minimium of .060 clearence on steel or iron.

I have a couple good shots from my 517 (4.25" arm/ 2.200 rod) on my home computer, I'll try to post them up tonight.

Wasn't really needed since it really cleared BETTER than and 4.15/2.375 I've ever done (that's been many!) but I do it so if I want to go bigger at some point it's already done.

I also use .060" as the minimum clearance for any rotating components in proximity to one another, (and that includes rod shoulders to cam lobes on some small block apps.)....Even though I the thought that anything is actually moving around anything close to that from the crank centerline

This attachment is a 400 block, 4.150" stroke, 6.76" long x 2.375" steel rod. You can see both the notch at the bottom of the cylinder bore, and the grind on the oil pickup tube boss. The 1/2 NPT pickup tube just happened to need a tweak to clear also.

This is a 400 block, 4.250" stroke, 6.535" long x 2.200" steel rod. The oil pickup tube boss did clear without a grind, but I wanted 0.060" so I touched it in the right place with the grinder.

Different strokes,rods,journal diameter/ widths'and bolts are vary as to amont and placement.

As Promised...Here's a shot from my Low deck 400 230 block 517/4.300" stroke with 2.200" (BBC) journal rods.

More than it needed but already clearance in case I wanted to go bigger next time...but this combo works so well it's not gonna happen.

Since you're do to the stroker scene I'd recommend that ( low decks especially) it's every bit as important to verify your Counterweight clearances both within the crankcase AND to your piston skirts....always verify you have the running clearance and be sure to rock all the pistons at BDC as well

Good point WIZE. When putting any stroker crank in a low deck (440 blocks are machined more from the factory). This picture is where the crank counterweights can hit the block. You can grind here for clearance, reduce the counterweight diameter to ~7.25" dia (but watch the balance weight), and/or put bevels on the edges of the counterweights.

This is from Chuck Senatore's book, showing a very large bevel on the crank counterweights.