For a 3/8" stem valve?

Thing is these are the retainers I need to use with the cam I want:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-747-16

And my heads already have new std size 3/8 stem valves but they are 3ple groove.

Other option would be to find a similar retainer that accepts a 7° lock and use my stock valve locks????

However I dont know if it would be adviseable to use stock 7° valve locks with a MP 284° ,528" flat tappet solid small block cam.....

the 3 groove valve is just a cheapy replacement valve , not sure if you'll find a 10* lock ???

single groove is more secure. triple groove can be improved by filing the open ends so they do not butt, but i wouldn't do that in anything other than a stock rebuild. valve train is where most engine failures start. don't skimp.

Use 7* locks with that cam - no problem !!! I use 7* locks with a .600 roller!

The 7* locks actually provide more clamping pressure than the 10's. The point of 10's is they're less likely to pull through the retainer with high spring pressures - which you don't have to worry about with that cam.

Now on a totally self-serving note ... I have a brand new set of retainers that will fit your application. PM me if you're interested.

Triple grooves won't be an issue with that cam. Certainly not worth replacing all the valves and doing another valve job!

Thanks for the replies guys!

Yes, I dont want to change the valves...they are brand new and the heads are fresh.

Its just a stock rebuild 340....I wanted to give it some more oomph with the cam instead of the smallish hyd thaty it had in it.

Its all new, freshly rebuilt, it just had never been fired.

I tore it apart for inspection and there were lots of things wrong with the way it was put together, luckily it was never fired up!

It had floating pins, bushings installed on the small end, but they were not clearanced enough....also, they didnt drill any lubrication holes on the rods.

They didnt change the rod bolts to ARP.

They nicked a rod journal when assembling and the crank pin was gouged BAD, and the rod bearing was junk from just having been turned over while assembling it.

It has the OLD TRW slugs but they had very tight piston to wall clearance, like if they were cast psitons!

The heads have new guides, new valves, fresh valvejob. It all looks ok and its brand new.

Bearing clearances were WAY too tight. Im going for ,0025"

etc,,,,

So its all brand new stuff, should be OK once I correct all thats wring with it....but I dont want to spend more money on it, since its all complete and its all new. I drew ther line at the cam, springs and retainer swap, and all the machine work, new rings, bearings, oil pump, gaskets, etc.

I have other engines to build to get crazy on!

I just want this one to be a nice reliable street friendly 340.6 engine.

OK Last quiestion.

I got the retainers for those springs and the 7° locks.

Now question: IS THERE ANY RISK IN USING STOCK STAMPED 3 GROOVE 7° LOCKS WITH THAT CAM AND SPRINGS?

Surprisingly, it looks OK.

The stamped locks will be fine. Keep in mind the ribs on the lock only position the lock, it is the clamping force from the taper that does all the work. If you're really worried about it, Hughes carries 2-groove stamped, case hardened locks. They may work in the 3-groove valve.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/produ...mp;partid=10318

Its very easy to recommend the best parts when someone else is paying for them!