Re: Beat on this dead horse some more....Break in oil
[Re: Moparnut426]
#1349584
12/11/12 05:17 PM
12/11/12 05:17 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091 Delray beach, Florida
Performance Only
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091
Delray beach, Florida
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Kasey, One of the things i've noticed is exactly what Brad eluded to regarding ring seal. I've seen where it takes longer to seat the rings when i use break in oil. They always seat fine but it does seem to take longer. On a roller motor i don't use break in oil or additive of any kind. My opinion is that unless it's a flat tappet cam it's getting the oil that will be run in it full time. The flat tappet cams and lifters need the extra lubrication break in oil provides since the EPA has made oil companies cut back on the zinc and phospherous in the everyday oils. Oh, by the way Kasey, Happy Birthday.
machine shop owner and engine builder
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Re: Beat on this dead horse some more....Break in oil
[Re: Performance Only]
#1349585
12/11/12 05:28 PM
12/11/12 05:28 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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OP
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Well Im also not sold on the whole thing either, I completely under stand the flat tapped deal, but I also think that a good oil thats known to have the correct amount of zink and phosphorous should be fine for the camshaft, Like in my case good ol brad penn. I am not arguing the fact that break inn oils help the cam, but what can it help the bearings and rings, like stated above. Im building a buddies 4.0 for his jeep, and he bought Joe Gibbs break in oil and holy crap nuts batman, 60 bucks for 6 quarts, REALLY??? seems a touch overkill to me. But Ill run it and make him happy. I remember Dad building engines back when I was a lil snapper and he never had anything special in the oils, just broke the cams in like normal. My 440 in the Ramcharger was broke in with just Brad Penn 10w30 with a can of zink additive in it, It went fine so far. and Thanks for the BD wishes Mr performance, aka Dan the man.
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Re: Beat on this dead horse some more....Break in oil
[Re: Moparnut426]
#1349586
12/11/12 06:38 PM
12/11/12 06:38 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091 Delray beach, Florida
Performance Only
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091
Delray beach, Florida
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Kasey, Back when you were a little tike we had better oil. like i said, the EPA has mandated much lower levels of zinc and phospherous and that's been going on for quite a few years now. sometimes people get lucky with the flat tappet cams and other times not so much. I agree that break in oil in a 4.0 jeep motor is totally unnecessary. Brad Penn is my oil of choice for most of the engines I build, but break in oil only goes in the flat tappet motors.
machine shop owner and engine builder
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Re: Beat on this dead horse some more....Break in oil
[Re: Racer33]
#1349588
12/11/12 07:48 PM
12/11/12 07:48 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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I Live Here
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OP
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Finally a HUSKER again
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Im not argueing the use of it here in this case, just the cost of it is stupid as hell.
I thought Roth Racing had 10w30 bradd penn on hand, he told me he did have a few cases,
If he is gona run that oil in the engine after break in, why not keep the extra oil around for changes down the road.
The ring seal is my main question here, Not the use of high zink oils and flat tappets.
I never ran anything in the demon at all except the Brad Penn, Full roller, yet some people told me I should have used a lighter break in oil.
I understand the old oils were better, and by adding say a lucas oil zink additive to the standard oils today, that would get me back to the standard oils from when Dad built engines.
Not getting into a pissing match here, and Iunderstand the what ifs, and insurance side, but Im still not sold on the 10 dollar a quart break in oils. I think some corporate douche somewhere found a niche market for guys who just spent thousands on a engine and want a better oil to have piece of mind.
Just a way to line pockets I think.....
Thanks hot rod for the BD wishes, I hope ya stop in to have a beer with me and Donny tomarrow.
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Re: Beat on this dead horse some more....Break in oil
[Re: BradH]
#1349591
12/11/12 10:09 PM
12/11/12 10:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875 communist bloc of new jersey
jamesc
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
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Quote:
I've recently been doing some research on what's in the various brands of "break in" oil and am having a bit of trouble getting past the hype and into the facts myself. I suspect some of them have been blended by their Marketing Departments, not their Engineering Team...
here is someone that "gets it"
imho all the magic claims about this oil or that oil are a bunch of bunk. i worked in a lubes packaging plant and saw first hand the label vs contents deal. one of the products we packaged was kendall GT-1 which afaik is now the brad penn "green" oil which the "green" is NOTHING but dye which you don't want or need in an engine. imho you can get a perfectly acceptable quality of lubricant from the major vendors without paying a ridiculous amount of money for some boutique named oil.
unless things have changed shell rotella is pretty good. personally i run valvoline VR-1 20-50 in the dragster (i got a bunch half price), mobil 1 0-40 european in the sled, walmart synthetic in the cars and shell rotella 15-40 in the motorcycles and cummins. people are free to choose whatever lubricant they like and if paying a premium price makes them think it's better then so be it. even i myself knowing better get a little carried away. i'd be wiling to bet the rotella would work perfectly fine in everything except the sled which has seen -20°. when was the last time someone attributed an engine failure of any type (flat tappet possible exception) directly to the oil chosen? for flat tappet concerns just use a common vendor that has the desired level of ZDDP you want.
brad penn, royal purple, amsoil, joe gibbs, red line or any other snake oil...you'll never see a bottle of them in my shop unless someone left it there
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