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Proportioning valve #1344721
12/01/12 09:36 PM
12/01/12 09:36 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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cdstl  Offline OP
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OK. The front-end rebuild is complete. Of course I decided to put on new calipers and hoses during the process. I noticed that I had a glop of rusty sludge in the hose fitting and decided that the Master Cylinder and Prop valve should probably be changed. I am sure that they are original equipment and my brake fluid is a little rusty looking although the inside of the Master is not rusty/scaly. The previous owner put braided lines from the Master to the Prop valve and also to the front brakes. I will probably end up putting in a new line to the rears since it is probably rust-welded to the Prop valve.

My question is whether or not anyone rebuilds the Prop valve or installs a new one. Inline Tube has a combination Brake Warning/Proportioning/Metering Valve assembly for $95.

Thanks

http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/VML105.htm

My Valve

Last edited by cdstl; 12/01/12 09:39 PM.

1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344722
12/01/12 10:02 PM
12/01/12 10:02 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Myself I'd open it up & see how far you can take it apart. Shouldn't be too complicated


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: RapidRobert] #1344723
12/01/12 10:41 PM
12/01/12 10:41 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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Looking at the FSM it shows a couple of O rings on the differential piston and one on the Warning Switch. I have thought about getting it apart and just blowing it out good with brake cleaner.

Has anyone had one apart?

Thanks


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344724
12/02/12 12:11 AM
12/02/12 12:11 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 502
St Louis, Missouri
Runnin74 Offline
mopar
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St Louis, Missouri
I've had mine apart. Not too difficult - you can hold it in a vice to remove the caps. You'll find a two piece brass valve inside with o-rings. That cleaned up pretty well, but the bores of the housing were pretty well pitted.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344725
12/02/12 08:20 AM
12/02/12 08:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,074
Niles , Ohio
T
therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
therocks  Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
T

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Niles , Ohio
If it works now just clean it with some brake clean and reinstall.Mine is probally 40 years old and pulled from a junk yard.Still works great.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344726
12/02/12 11:14 AM
12/02/12 11:14 AM
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cdstl Offline OP
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The little bit of sludge was in the front brake caliper line. When I "bench bleed" the master into 2 water bottles, while installed on the car, the smaller rear brake reservoir draws a lot of fluid. The larger front brake reservoir doesn't seem to draws very well. Shouldn't they both draw fluid at the same rate?

At the very least it sounds like the master is plugged a little in the front brake reservoir.

Opinions?


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344727
12/02/12 04:43 PM
12/02/12 04:43 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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Quote:

The little bit of sludge was in the front brake caliper line. When I "bench bleed" the master into 2 water bottles, while installed on the car, the smaller rear brake reservoir draws a lot of fluid. The larger front brake reservoir doesn't seem to draws very well. Shouldn't they both draw fluid at the same rate?

At the very least it sounds like the master is plugged a little in the front brake reservoir.

Opinions?




Anyone?


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344728
12/02/12 08:58 PM
12/02/12 08:58 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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OK, here goes. I pulled the Master Cylinder and I am going to get a new one. I even managed to get the pushrod out without dorking up the bushing. The question is what is the difference between the following:

AutoZone $30.00
Napa $45.00
MP Brakes $90.00

Thanks


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344729
12/03/12 10:36 AM
12/03/12 10:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,074
Niles , Ohio
T
therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
therocks  Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
T

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,074
Niles , Ohio
Usually the difference is a bucnh of $$$$.We have reman masters on 4 old Mopars.All from Advanced.Mine is at least 15 years old.No problems.We used quite a few at work also.I think in 30 years Ive had maybe 2 or 3 bad ones.Most people that have problems over pushing the guts when bench bleeding and or bleeding the system.Push too far and you risk tearing the seals inside.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: therocks] #1344730
12/03/12 11:59 AM
12/03/12 11:59 AM
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Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Usually the difference is a bucnh of $$$$.We have reman masters on 4 old Mopars.All from Advanced.Mine is at least 15 years old.No problems.We used quite a few at work also.I think in 30 years Ive had maybe 2 or 3 bad ones.Most people that have problems over pushing the guts when bench bleeding and or bleeding the system.Push too far and you risk tearing the seals inside.Rocky


that's been my experience also


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: RapidRobert] #1344731
12/03/12 12:44 PM
12/03/12 12:44 PM
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Posts: 7,368
Iowa
burdar Offline
Owen's Dad
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Definately pull the prop valve apart. If it hasn't been sitting around unused for a long time, it will probalby come apart easily. I just had mine apart a few months ago. Gary(Challenger_1) posted a great picture of one disassembled. I saved his pic but don't have it on this computer.

Soaking it in EvapoRust should clean it up nicely. Just clean it out the best you can before you dip it so you don't dirty up your EvapoRust too bad.

Once I had mine reassembled, I applied RPM to it so it won't rust again.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: burdar] #1344732
12/03/12 06:02 PM
12/03/12 06:02 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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Good post. I have a FSM but wouldn't mind seeing a picture of that Prop valve. For now I am changing the Master. I got one from NAPA pretty much because they could have it the next morning. Should I take the Master apart to put the pushrod with the bushing in or should it go in fairly easy? It didn't want to come out at all but after it did it was in fairly decent shape. I still ordered 3 more.

Thanks


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344733
12/03/12 06:09 PM
12/03/12 06:09 PM
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Iowa
burdar Offline
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I found the old post about my sticky valve. The picture of the disassembled valve is in this thread.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...amp;Search=true

The problem with mine was the valve assembly on the left side in the picture. It was rusted in the bore from sitting for years. When I tried to remove it, it broke into pieces. I had to find another valve to use for parts. Be careful removing that assembly. If yours is still working, that assembly should come right out.

If it doesn't pull right out, do NOT soak it with PB blaster. It will swell the seal and you'll be looking for another prop valve for parts.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344734
12/04/12 09:12 PM
12/04/12 09:12 PM
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cdstl Offline OP
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CRAP,CRAP and DOUBLE CRAP. Inline Tube has quit stocking this valve. I guess they quit about a year ago because the vendor MBM, whoever that is , was sending them crummy parts that would lock up the brakes when installed.

My valve is not terrible inside and can probably still be used. The shuttle still works and the rubber that I can see is in pretty decent shape. How do you get that shuttle out and can you get rebuild parts? Has anyone had one apart? The shuttle would have to come out of the big end facing the picture. It would sure be nice to clean the gunk out. I have the small parts soaking in brake fluid now, I guess it can't hurt.

I am hoping to buy another valve from a member just in case.

Thanks

7489292-PropValve2.JPG (198 downloads)

1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344735
12/04/12 10:57 PM
12/04/12 10:57 PM
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Forth Worth, Texas, USA
TheRamMan Offline
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Forth Worth, Texas, USA
the ram man could help you....and that valve is no more ( new)
817 691 5996

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: TheRamMan] #1344736
12/04/12 11:13 PM
12/04/12 11:13 PM
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Iowa
burdar Offline
Owen's Dad
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That's as far as mine came apart. I soaked everything in EvapoRust which cleaned everything up. I rinced it out with water, blew it dry with compressed air and lubed everything back up with brake fluid. If nothing is broken inside it will work just fine.


This is what I started with and it still works great.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344737
12/05/12 12:29 AM
12/05/12 12:29 AM
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Posts: 7,664
IN
A
ahy Offline
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master
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IN
Quote:

OK, here goes. I pulled the Master Cylinder and I am going to get a new one. I even managed to get the pushrod out without dorking up the bushing. The question is what is the difference between the following:

AutoZone $30.00
Napa $45.00
MP Brakes $90.00

Thanks




Besides price, don't know. I've used an AZ master on a '98 Neon (3 years ago) and '78 Ford PU (1 1/2 years ago) with no problems. Whichever you choose, agree a new master is good PM.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: burdar] #1344738
12/05/12 12:40 AM
12/05/12 12:40 AM
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Posts: 502
St Louis, Missouri
Runnin74 Offline
mopar
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St Louis, Missouri
Here's the valve off my 74 Runner. The shuttle comes out the smaller end of the housing and is in two pieces. The shorter piece slips into the end of the longer one and the o-ring holds it in place.

Re: Proportioning valve [Re: Runnin74] #1344739
12/05/12 01:22 AM
12/05/12 01:22 AM
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cdstl Offline OP
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Well, there it is and only an O ring holds the shuttle in there? And if I understand you are saying that it comes out of the outlet to the rear brakes and not the end where the valve stem goes. The outlet to the rear brakes on mine has a small brass or steel orifice pressed into the hole a lot like the 2 outlets from the master cylinder. Exactly the size of a wire coat hanger.

How were you able to press the shuttle out?

Thanks for the good picture.


1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
Re: Proportioning valve [Re: cdstl] #1344740
12/05/12 02:36 AM
12/05/12 02:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 502
St Louis, Missouri
Runnin74 Offline
mopar
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Yep! The o-ring on the left end of the short brass segment holds the two brass pieces together. That end of the short segment slips into the other brass piece up to the second o-ring from the left. The two brass pieces are free to move independently.
The rear brake line end of the shuttle is the brass orifice you refer to seeing. The other four brake line fittings on the valve have the small brass pressed in orifices.
I just took a small diameter rod and tapped the shuttle out of the bore from the valve stem end. It has to be small as the access hole between the two sides is small and off center from the axis of the bore of the valve. The o-rings all ride in separate machined bores so it goes tight then easy and so on until all the bores have been cleared by the o-rings.
Hopefully that is understandable. If not I can make more pics - let me know.

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