Here's the alternator I'm running:



If that doesn't work, try this link:


http://www.allpar.com/eek/i/13309.JPG

feets your photo didnt work, at least not for me?

Blown 71, where did you T into the stock field and amp gauge wires? I need to take out the stock regulator and wiring.

I didn`t "T" into anything, I didn`t want to hack up my OE harness because it was new when I redid the car and I have a strict rule on this car of doing no modifications that are not easily reversible (basicly bolt on`s) So what I did was put a resistor in the wire (heatshrink it) right at the alternator plug and a spade on the end (about 6 inches in length total) then it plugs into my original field supply wire (blue) which is a 12 volt switched source. The Green field return wire from the original alternator to the original regulator is not used so it`s just tied back.
If your not using any of your original wiring then the "L" terminal with the resistor or bulb from the alternator just needs to be hooked to a switched 12 volt (ign) source.

Also, hooking the ammeter wire right to the charge post won't fry the wires or the ammeter inside?? I don't think I want 100a going through my dashboard!

NO you don`t...thats why I said it is a MUST to run a wire from the output to the battery, with a proper sized fuse or fuselink at the battery.
The reason I have my original wire to the amp guage also hooked to the output of the alternator (per the diag I posted above) is as I said above...I don`t want to hack up my OE harness, It also in a roundabout way is a amp guage bypass and also splits the draw from the inside of the car over 2 terminals in the bulkhead connector VS just one. I have all my high current stuff (injector feed, pumps, inverter, etc) connected right to the battery as should anybody with any high current accessory. Even when new these older cars that we all deal with were never designed to accommodate alot of the high current stuff that we deal with today. And while there might be that one person that says they got by with something....Its better to be safe than burn down you pride and joy.


Rick

Blown71, what kind and where do you get the resistor from? I went to a local electronics store last night, and the only resistors they had were the miniature ones that go in computers.

Where can you find inline ones that can be spliced into the wiring?

Any part numbers or pictures of what I'm looking for would be appreciated.

Nick,
Is slowed down by the little details...

PM me your address and i`ll drop one in the mail tomorrow

Rick

Okay, got it installed last night. Small blocks are a little more involved than the big blocks. I had to bend the bracket that hooks to the waterpump, and shorten the slotted adjustment bracket about 1". I needed a 1" shorter belt to make it work.

Also installed at the same time a Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan (2800 cfm from a single fan!!); that was an adventure by itself. Let's just say that I have 1/8" clearance between the water pump and the fan blades.

But, my lights DO NOT dim at idle, with the headlights, fan, wipers, radio, and heater motor going.

Thanks for the help guys!

Nick,
Is brighter at night...

congrats

Got one last pic for GM alternator on Motor plate with 8mm cog drive.

If you want to go with new alternator technology why not use the Powermaster Chrysler one-wire? It looks like this...


It would seem nice to be able to eliminate some of the extra wiring and the external regulator off of the firewall. Anybody do this yet?

jim

My Sport Satellite Wagon is currently at the local Auto Electricians Shop for some dash wiring/bulkhead area work. I had previously bought a GM CS-130 140 Amp "Iceberg" alternator www.alternatorparts.com/iceberg.htm
I also bought a bracket assy and a M.A.D. Enterprises CS-130 Wiring Kit which he'll also install. The shop owner is an old Mopar man with a Valiant under a car cover at the premises. I won't miss the external voltage regulator or my Orange Box as my trusty Jacobs does the job. I run a big Yellow Optima in my spare tire well and 1/0 Gauge cable from M.A.D.

Just re-saving this, lost it somehow.

IMHO this should be archived with the other alternator upgrade threads