Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
#134121
10/08/08 11:41 PM
10/08/08 11:41 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Unregistered
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...Can this be done. I know they can now be purchased from Powermaster, but what do they do to convert them, and can it be done easily and cheaply? I want to keep the Mopar 'LOOK' under the hood or I would just use the Delco 1 wire I already have. It must be possible, but what does it take? thanks guys/gals.
JJ
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Re: Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
#134122
10/09/08 05:41 AM
10/09/08 05:41 AM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,086
Baton Rouge, La.
StandOnIt
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,086
Baton Rouge, La.
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A one wire has a voltage regulator built in the unit. I dont think a stock mopar case has the room for it.
76' Volare, 5.9 magnum w/Iron heads. New best 10.68 at 123 mph 1/4 mile.
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Re: Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
#134125
10/10/08 04:27 PM
10/10/08 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
...Can this be done. I know they can now be purchased from Powermaster, but what do they do to convert them, and can it be done easily and cheaply? I want to keep the Mopar 'LOOK' under the hood or I would just use the Delco 1 wire I already have. It must be possible, but what does it take? thanks guys/gals.
JJ
Not sure I understand your question. If you are talking about the 17509 alternator, yes you can. The two wires on the 70's era alternator were for 12V and for the regulator. Hook the single wire to one field terminal and hook the other terminal by way of a short jumper to ground.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
[Re: denfireguy]
#134126
10/10/08 05:32 PM
10/10/08 05:32 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 238
St. Catharines, ON
NewMemberAgain
super street
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super street
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 238
St. Catharines, ON
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I have that one myself except w/o the fancy chrome  Two things; Yes it has an external regulator, it really looks like an eyesore, but it does wire up very easily. Secondly, it does not charge at idle. At least that is what the paper bench tested it at. Also when I idle my car no charge. TILL it hits 2000 rpm, THEN it charges. So it is coming off the car, and we will re-evaluate my charging system over the winter. Make sure you havea good return policy, you may need it IF the same thing happens to you! Bryan
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Re: Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
[Re: AndyF]
#134128
10/10/08 06:58 PM
10/10/08 06:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14
Michigan
streetglide
member
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member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14
Michigan
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I was wondering this my self. How does a one wire Alt. know when your electrical system needs more or less juice. Is it constantly charging to the point of boiling over your battery?
69 Dodge Coronet
77 Dodge M880
84 Jeep J20
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Re: Converting Mopar Alternator to 1 wire????
[Re: streetglide]
#134130
10/11/08 07:44 PM
10/11/08 07:44 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
I was wondering this my self. How does a one wire Alt. know when your electrical system needs more or less juice. Is it constantly charging to the point of boiling over your battery?
The difference is in the logic of controlling the alternator. In the older system, a voltage sensitive relay controlled the current on the field. When the voltage came up to the level of full charge on the battery, the relay would open up a set of contacts feeding 12 V to the field. The field would de-energize and the output current would cut off. When the voltage went down, the relay would release and the normally closed contacts would once again engage, current flowed through the field and output resumed. This is why there is light flicker and amperage flicker on the old systems. Where does the other field wire go? It is connected directly to ground by the second field brush.
The newer, so called "electronic" system (they both use electronics, just one is mechanical) used a transistor to control the voltage on the field. The transistor was inserted between the field and the ground. The other end of the field was now connected to 12 volts from the ignition. The transistor is an amplifier and conducts in a pretty linear fashion dependent on the voltage on the base of the pass transistor. It is the silver diamond shaped thing on the heat sink of the regulator. Since it is linear and continuous, the flicker is gone. No moving parts, less chance for failure and no flicker. A genuine improvement.
So there is actually two wires on the old system too, just one is going straight to case ground on the back of the alternator.
Both of them just used ignition voltage to see where the level of charge was on the battery.
Hope this helps clear it up a bit. Maybe more than you wanted to know.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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