What kind of alt did you use, and how does it wire up?

Any pictures you have would be very useful to me.

Nick

I did it but don't have a clue as to what the alternator fit. I went to NAPA and told them that I wanted a GM 1 wire and they got me one out. Ran the battery terminal on the starter relay. Modified the mounting brackets slightly.

Talk to Mark Hamilton at MAD Enterprises. 559-339-7128. This guy forgot more than I'll ever know about electrical systems. He's very easy to talk to.

Dunno about small block applications, But this is just dang near a bolt on for a big block. All that is required is a 3 inch spacer between the alternator and head,And in my case a 2 inch shorter belt. Fits right on OE brackets with no hacking and comes with a V-belt pulley on it

OE application is a 89 Caddy with a 5 liter, It is a CS style 105 amp...I think it was like 80 bucks at Autozone.

Its not a 1 wire as I don`t personally care for 1 wires...but that`s just me...its a easy wiring job to do regardless.


Rick

I run the same one as blown71x...

I'm running a three wire 100amp GM alternator built by HITACHI.





Wire connections......


Mounting - I dropped the alternator lower by using the bottom hole of the cylinder head.


Mounting connection from bottom of alternator.


Are you keeping your battery in the "stock" location or moving it to the trunk?......this does make a difference in the wire guage size to use.

The upper and lower mounting brackets where bought at Osh for about $20 dollars.

The battery is staying in the engine bay for now.

Blown71GTX, how do you wire the later style alternator? That's the one with the 4 wire plug on it, right?

Thanks, and thanks for the pictures guys!

Nick,
Lights dim at idle...

Yes Nick its the 4 pin plug one, Below is how I wired mine. Don`t laugh....I`m no artist

There may be a person or 2 that will have a cow because of the sense (S) wire looped around to the positive stud because some web site says it`s not the way to do it.....Well thats a crock....it works fine and was even done that way in a OEM application at one time.

I have above average current requirements in my car due the the electronics on it...this has just been a flawless setup.




Rick

Or if you are mechanical enough or want the factory look, go here and convert your old one: http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

Why use a GM alternator? I dropped in a 120 amp alternator from a Dodge van. It bolted up easily and works with the existing electrical system. I did upgrade the power lead off the alternator but that should be done with ANY high amp alternator.

On the Hot Rod Power Tour I was idling for extended periods with the stereo, 1000w amp, headlights, wipers, electrical fuel pump, and both electric fans all sucking amps. The alternator showed no signs of fatigue carrying that load at idle speed.
Can't complain when you consider that it was a $20 salvage yard alternator.

What year van?

I think it was a 92. Before the body change. It even had twin V belts.

This is good stuff for winter garage work. Thanks

any problem wiring it i have a 69 gtx with air?

I used the stock wiring with the exception of a larger lead to handle the current flow of the new alternator.
The factory wire was built for 30 amps. It won't like the load of 100+ when you get a heavy demand on the alt.

Should work fine with air.

Did you have to change any of your wiring to the voltage reg ?-

Feets, whats it look like?

why do u have to use a resistor on the GM alt? do u have to get it at radio shack?

where did u get the cool chrome Hitachi alt, what did it come off of and how much?

Okay, bought the GM one last night at work, just because they are more readily available than the Denso ones, and cheaper. Part # is 1345-6-7, fits Chevy pickups, 1987-1996, so every parts store has them. Just had to swap the pulley for a v-belt one.

Blown 71, where did you T into the stock field and amp gauge wires? I need to take out the stock regulator and wiring.

Also, hooking the ammeter wire right to the charge post won't fry the wires or the ammeter inside?? I don't think I want 100a going through my dashboard!

Thanks for your help!
Nick,
Will wire it up Friday...

Here's the alternator I'm running:



If that doesn't work, try this link:


http://www.allpar.com/eek/i/13309.JPG

feets your photo didnt work, at least not for me?

Blown 71, where did you T into the stock field and amp gauge wires? I need to take out the stock regulator and wiring.

I didn`t "T" into anything, I didn`t want to hack up my OE harness because it was new when I redid the car and I have a strict rule on this car of doing no modifications that are not easily reversible (basicly bolt on`s) So what I did was put a resistor in the wire (heatshrink it) right at the alternator plug and a spade on the end (about 6 inches in length total) then it plugs into my original field supply wire (blue) which is a 12 volt switched source. The Green field return wire from the original alternator to the original regulator is not used so it`s just tied back.
If your not using any of your original wiring then the "L" terminal with the resistor or bulb from the alternator just needs to be hooked to a switched 12 volt (ign) source.

Also, hooking the ammeter wire right to the charge post won't fry the wires or the ammeter inside?? I don't think I want 100a going through my dashboard!

NO you don`t...thats why I said it is a MUST to run a wire from the output to the battery, with a proper sized fuse or fuselink at the battery.
The reason I have my original wire to the amp guage also hooked to the output of the alternator (per the diag I posted above) is as I said above...I don`t want to hack up my OE harness, It also in a roundabout way is a amp guage bypass and also splits the draw from the inside of the car over 2 terminals in the bulkhead connector VS just one. I have all my high current stuff (injector feed, pumps, inverter, etc) connected right to the battery as should anybody with any high current accessory. Even when new these older cars that we all deal with were never designed to accommodate alot of the high current stuff that we deal with today. And while there might be that one person that says they got by with something....Its better to be safe than burn down you pride and joy.


Rick

Blown71, what kind and where do you get the resistor from? I went to a local electronics store last night, and the only resistors they had were the miniature ones that go in computers.

Where can you find inline ones that can be spliced into the wiring?

Any part numbers or pictures of what I'm looking for would be appreciated.

Nick,
Is slowed down by the little details...

PM me your address and i`ll drop one in the mail tomorrow

Rick

Okay, got it installed last night. Small blocks are a little more involved than the big blocks. I had to bend the bracket that hooks to the waterpump, and shorten the slotted adjustment bracket about 1". I needed a 1" shorter belt to make it work.

Also installed at the same time a Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan (2800 cfm from a single fan!!); that was an adventure by itself. Let's just say that I have 1/8" clearance between the water pump and the fan blades.

But, my lights DO NOT dim at idle, with the headlights, fan, wipers, radio, and heater motor going.

Thanks for the help guys!

Nick,
Is brighter at night...

congrats

Got one last pic for GM alternator on Motor plate with 8mm cog drive.

If you want to go with new alternator technology why not use the Powermaster Chrysler one-wire? It looks like this...


It would seem nice to be able to eliminate some of the extra wiring and the external regulator off of the firewall. Anybody do this yet?

jim

My Sport Satellite Wagon is currently at the local Auto Electricians Shop for some dash wiring/bulkhead area work. I had previously bought a GM CS-130 140 Amp "Iceberg" alternator www.alternatorparts.com/iceberg.htm
I also bought a bracket assy and a M.A.D. Enterprises CS-130 Wiring Kit which he'll also install. The shop owner is an old Mopar man with a Valiant under a car cover at the premises. I won't miss the external voltage regulator or my Orange Box as my trusty Jacobs does the job. I run a big Yellow Optima in my spare tire well and 1/0 Gauge cable from M.A.D.

Just re-saving this, lost it somehow.

IMHO this should be archived with the other alternator upgrade threads