727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
#1332350
11/08/12 05:13 PM
11/08/12 05:13 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
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I'm just now in the process of taking my bigblock 727 apart. It's the 1969 model, part nr I believe is 2892754.
All bushings, bearings, seals, gaskets etc. will be needed, as well as some upgraded internals to handle more power. It will be mated to a high-compression 512 with alu-heads running E85, mainly street use.
Any good source for parts/kits, and what kind of upgrades do you recommend?
Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: Swedcharger67]
#1332351
11/08/12 05:37 PM
11/08/12 05:37 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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John Cope at CRT will have everything you will need. a sponsor here on Moparts and has the best customer service,know how,parts,price,turn around time. 
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 11/08/12 05:37 PM.
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: Swedcharger67]
#1332352
11/08/12 05:54 PM
11/08/12 05:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,444
Indiana
YO7_A66
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,444
Indiana
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Rick Allison at A&A is another excellent 727 guy. (rallison@aandatrans.com)
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1332354
11/09/12 12:22 PM
11/09/12 12:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,274
s.w.fl
bonefish
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,274
s.w.fl
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Quote:
John Cope at CRT will have everything you will need.
a sponsor here on Moparts and has the best customer service,know how,parts,price,turn around time.
save yourself a ton of greif, just call John Cope.
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: bonefish]
#1332356
11/09/12 11:06 PM
11/09/12 11:06 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
John Cope at CRT will have everything you will need.
a sponsor here on Moparts and has the best customer service,know how,parts,price,turn around time.
save yourself a ton of greif, just call John Cope.
I pieced one together a few years ago, and by the time I paid seperate shipping charges, and had to get misc assembly parts like various thickness snap rings, steels, bushings and such I could have just had John build it for me.
First decision should be the valve body. Auto, manual, or trans brake?
The auto will have the least line pressure,, and will require the stock type governor support and output shaft.
With the manual (Reverse pattern) it will have greater line pressure and you can used a rollerized output support and solid output shaft (if you want those options?)
The trans brake requires a few mods to the front drum and transmission case for the wiring.
One option I like is the rear mount vent.
For the street, I used a billet steel drum for saftey and it holds more clutches. Also, for saftey, I installed the 16-element super sprag.
To use the billet drum noted above the rear drum needs clearanced, or what I did was replace it with the billet aluminum rear drum.
Depending on the amount of power and weight of the car, the aluminum front planetary gear might need to be changed to a steel / steel splined version as the aluminum splines will break out with high torque loading.
I ended up building something simular to John Copes "Pro-Race II" transmission with the optional extras, and billet front servo and accumulator, but this is for a #4,150 car with 700 HP, and now I have a Strange S60 with spool, so maybe I can hook it up at the track without breaking any more parts?
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1332357
11/10/12 01:25 AM
11/10/12 01:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,624
Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart
Rhinotruck
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Rhinotruck
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,624
Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
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Cope is all you need!  I have shipped alot of his parts overseas.
Last edited by Rhinodart; 11/10/12 01:25 AM.
The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.
JB Rhinehart, Realist
A-Body's RULE!
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: Rhinodart]
#1332358
11/11/12 07:09 PM
11/11/12 07:09 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
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Thanks all for your inputs.
I'm attaching a pic of the bearing in the 727 extension housing. The bushing at the output end is completely worn out.
Now, how tight is this bearing supposed to sit in the extension housing?. I can easily drop it in and remove it with my fingers, I imagine the bearing could easily spin in the housing, can't see signs of it though.
Is this bearing supposed to be quite tight or what is the case?
Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
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Re: 727 total rebuild with upgrades, where & what to buy?
[Re: Swedcharger67]
#1332359
11/13/12 03:40 AM
11/13/12 03:40 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Quote:
Thanks all for your inputs.
I'm attaching a pic of the bearing in the 727 extension housing. The bushing at the output end is completely worn out.
Now, how tight is this bearing supposed to sit in the extension housing?. I can easily drop it in and remove it with my fingers, I imagine the bearing could easily spin in the housing, can't see signs of it though.
Is this bearing supposed to be quite tight or what is the case?
The roller bearing pictured slips into the case (on the output shaft) and is held in place (in the case)with a snap ring there should also be snap rings on the output shaft that hold it in place on the shaft. The tail housing output slip yoke bushing should fit tight in the case.
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