Well I finally decided to start the 572 hemi I have spent the last 2 years building. Its been sitting for 3 months waiting for the body so I got impatient....went to the local salvage yard to get a /6 electronic ignition harness, grabbed an old orange box and 4 hours later she was running.

I wound up sticking the gas line into an old jerry can, borrowing the battery out of my hot rod Kia and cranked her over on the cradle I built.
NOTE TO SELF: make sure use the correct rotation when installing plug wires...she did run on 1 cylinder but it was pretty anemic...

ANOTHER NOTE TO SELF: dont point the headers into the shop on a fresh engine, the smoke was pretty bad for the initial start up.

With a little tuning and the correct firing order she was the loudest engine I have ever built....

GAWD damn a hemi is a beautiful thing. Now I just need a car to put it in.

So now I have to figure out how to fix the leaks I found. Rear main is spewing and the racepumps 2000 has a leak and the fuel pump push rod is hammering pretty bad.

The world block came with a billet rear seal retainer, I had a hell of a time getting the side seals down, I may look for an original cast one and see if it works better.

So my big question is....is 70 PSI too much? I am running a HV oil pump and 3/4" line from the Milidon 31581 external pickup to the front of the block.

Tim

I have never had luck with the billet ones. I use stock cast seal retainers in all of my builds, with superperformance gaskets.

How heavy is the oil? I run 15-40 in my junk and its usually about 80-90 cold and drops to 60 after a few minutes. If it gets really hot (I have a diaper and it retains heat) it may go down to 40-50 when we hot lap. This is all at idle, of course. The bypass is set around 90, which is where it stays down track. Don't want it going over that because I've had it blow a filter apart. I think the splatter reached a bush 15 feet away.
As far as the oil pump push rod, make sure its getting oil. You should have a small (i forget the dimension) hole in one of the galley plugs to spray the chain and the pump eccentric/push rod. The push rod may be binding.

Its a brass tipped one from comp cams, the Racepumps pump almost sounds like a lifter tapping and I could hear it over the open headers. Tim

Tim there was an old blog (maybe a year ago) on here about the World blocks rear seal not lining up with the block seal. By chance did you think to double check that? I don't know how you could check it with the crank in it, but the pictures in the old article were pretty clear of the misalignment when the crank was not there. I really hope that is not your problem.

I thought I checked it, but I put it together in april so I am fuzzy on everything I checked. If not I will have to find an original and try that. Tim

Glad to hear you got her fired up. I bought my rear main seal and retainer from Hughes. I can only imagine how big a smile it must have put on your face. Ron

congrats on firing that big hemi:)

I think I put in 5w50 castrol syntec, with the roller cam I was not too concerned about breaking in the cam, but the rings need a good 50 hours of run time before they get a good seal. It was neat to hit the starter button and have it fire right off, no hesitation at all, about half a crank revolution and she was running. Tim

What is a good way to break in a roller motor to seat the rings? I am running on just a stand so no driving yet...Tim

Well I am going to work on leaks next, I need to contact racepumps to find out about the pushrod length, I could hear it tapping over the open headers...Tim

Has anyone used a racepumps fuel pump before? What did you use for a pushrod? How did you keep it from leaking. Tim